I cannot remember a bike I more anticipated hitting my doorstep than the Trek Stache 9, a uniquely designed 29+ aluminum hardtail that also happens to run 27+ set-ups (all need to be Boost standard hubs). We got it out of the box here, and hit the trails without delay.
I have ridden it now under typical So Cal summer trail conditions, both on open fireroad and singletrack and taken it up and down rock stepped trails to see what even bigger diameter wheels do for you in decently techy sections. And now that the bike is in the large hands of JeffJ to ride for a bit, I have some thoughts to share on the Stache 9 and on 29+ et al. It is also good timing in that I was able to, within the same time period, get on two 27+ bikes, one a very similar hardtail in a Scott Bikes Scale 27+ model, so I have that to compare the 29+ to. And as well, I have been on a steel hardtail in a very traditional 29er to fit in between the two plus sized bookends. Here we go then.
First off, kudos to Trek for doing an amazing job of packaging that 29+ tire and wheel combo into as small/short a ‘box’ as could be. Looking at the frame and the engineering that went into that, the shapes, the dimensions, and how it all was pulled together on the trail is very impressive. I predict no one else will do that as well as they did with the Stache 9, although some may try. If you think it took some work to make a 29er feel nimble on trail, you better buckle up with 29+ because it is even more…well more ‘MORE’, than a normal 29er. So how did it work for me on trail?
Rolling out on some pavement to get to the trail head, you look down at the front wheel and go “wow…that is a big wheel!”. With 13psi in there and the fork set up on the first try…it took a bit of tweaking to get that sweet spot with that very tunable Manitou Magnum…it actually moved along pretty well, but you can tell you are accelerating a big hoop. However, compared to a 3.8″ or bigger Fat Bike tire, it is pretty fast feeling for sure. Once in the dirt, in this case a slightly uphill gravel road, it was surprising how little pedaling energy it took to keep your speed up and bits of sand and gravel just went pretty much unnoticed. That’s cool. One would expect a nearly 31″ tall tire to roll out like crazy and it does. It’s a new momentum king in that regard and if my rides were full of crumbly, loose soils, this tire size would be way high on my list. However a quick foray into some pretty deep sand showed me I was not on a full Fat Bike and although I made it through the sand trap, it was dicey and took a lot of energy where the full fatty would have been pretty casual about it. Fair enough. Better than a 2.3 29er on a wide rim…not as better as a 3.8 (or bigger) on a truly wider rim, etc.
You really know that the rear wheel is tucked underneath you. Wheelies are so easy it is silly, so getting the front end up over something is dead simple. The Stache 9 also feels smaller than you would expect, and hustling it down tight technical trails is not bad at all, but I never forgot I was riding biggy wheels either, for good and for bad. More on that in a bit. Standing out of the saddle and grinding up a steep climb was very good really…snappy even, in a slightly plump way, but I also noticed some tire based self steer when I shifted my weight more forward. Not self steer like a full on Fat Bike has, but enough to where it just would catch me off guard and sometimes I would miss my intended line by a couple of inches due to it. I note that not because it is significant really, but that I never felt this at all with the 27+ hardtail I rode and that had a pretty big 2.8″ knobby on it. Is a 3.0″ tire over the line a bit and beginning to have its own idea on what path to take? Not sure.
It is a bit balloon-ey, if you will, but after fiddling with the Manitou fork, which has a custom tune to work with that bigger, low PSI tire, I came to a good place with it and never found it to moon bounce me very much. The ride overall is a bit, well harsh is not quite the word really, not with 3.0 tires at 13psi, but those very short stays and alu frame do conspire to an abrupt ride once you hit something hard enough to go beyond the flex of the tire sidewall. It would surprise me sometimes and at speed you do have to keep things in check as the big wheels really get rolling and you feel a bit bulletproof. Then you hit a sharp impact or deeper roller to be reminded you are on a pretty short hardtail with a 110mm travel fork. It tends to ‘buck you’ if you are not weighting the bike right. But aside from that, handling is pretty dialed and it is great fun to ride. Cornering traction is so high that you really have to re-calibrate your on-board sensors as I continually found I was using too much brakes going into turns. Even on kitty litter/gravel over hardpack, those small knobbied tires never felt like they would slip or slide. It almost feels boring.
Climbing too has loads of hookup although you have to manage your body position to keep that front wheel down. Still, I never found anything that stopped me if I was able to keep pedaling. One would think that the stock tires are a bit mild for good traction, and I am sure they are in mud or greasy conditions, but that footprint is huge and loooong so it’s laying down a lot of rubber on the dirt.
Some bullet points as they come to me:
The Good
- As I said before…kudos to Trek for overcoming obstacles in the path to making what likely will be the benchmark 29+ playbike hard tail. The details in the frame are quite impressive.
- It’s pretty light too, enough so to not be a pig on the hills and even to ride all day if you were so inclined.
- 29+ has to be the king of rollability. Big mo.
- It’s a fun bike, it really is, as long as you know what to expect. Little boosts off of lips and bumps are easy…slide the real wheel out a bit…manuals, etc Playful for certain.
- It feels decently normal, so if you thought a Fat Bike was for you but it ended up being too much, this might be the trick.
The Not So Good (you know there has to be some)
- When was the last time you saw a bike with super short chainstays live a long time in the marketplace? Thinking back in time, I remember that Gary Fisher 26″ bike with what I recall were 15.5″ chainstays. Sure, you could climb almost anything when standing up and turn on a dime, but that bike was not a commercial success. There were others too, all of them long gone. And with the exception of some AM hardtail that needs to have that short rear/long pushed out front geometry (and this bike is even shorter than those typically are), you do not see super short chainstays in the general population of MTBs, 29er or otherwise. Why? For one thing it is not a well balanced set up. What you gain in agility you lose in stability, although those 31″ tall tires are some big gyroscopes of stableness. You also lose a lot of ride quality and that rear wheel on a supershort stay will hop around and jackhammer you a bit. I was surprised how, on some sections of trail that were almost Moab-ish rock, how impacts were coming right through the bike and up in to me. In comparison, the steel 29er I am on with normal 2.2″ tires is smoother. Driveline is compromised. On the Stache 9, with the SRAM 1×11, if I was in the 42T cog and I backpedaled more than a quick 1/4 ratchet move, the chain would walk off the cog. Annoying. You need to be way up on the nose of the saddle to climb steep pitches. Those 420mm stays are perhaps what is required to make the bike do what it does, but there is a cost.
- It might be a bit overgeared. I found the stock 30T front chainring to be barely adequate when combined with an even taller tire, giving me an effectively taller gear. But that depends on where you live and who you are I suppose.
- Sometimes those big 29+ tires would feel like a 12 year old with size 13 feet…despite the best intentions, they would just feel awkward. If I kept my speed up over rock ledges and sections, it would roll through. Drop offs were casual. But slow down too much and it felt a bit like clown feet at times…stalled out and hard to get going again.
- I hit my calves on the seat stays, not always, but quite often. I have pretty big calves so maybe it is me, but another journalist I was talking to had the same experience and on a larger scale.
So here I am in a different place than I expected to find myself. I thought that I would love 29+ and this bike even more so. I find that I am questioning 29+ and where it fits in. I also found that while the bike is very good at what it is, I am not smitten. And I think it comes down to a couple of things.
- Just because you can do something does not mean you should. If what it takes to make 29+ be a nimble play bike are chainstays so short that they compromise the bike then maybe the bike should be 27+? Is 29+ the killer app for bikepacking on a rigid, steel 29er? Quite likely, but that type of bike will not be boosting off of every bump in the trail either. So if it turns out to be a bit stable and long, so what? Quite possibly 29+ is a bridge too far for this trailbike format.
- Where I live is not really Plus bike country. Long climbs on scrabbly fireroads and over hardbaked trails are not really suited for Plus. So a lot of the bennies of 29+ get lost out here IMO. Now if I lived in Moab? That would be different. All those ledges and sand traps? Oh man. Horses for courses. Here a standard 29er wheel and tire, especially on a 30mm internal rim and tubeless…pretty darn good. I grabbed a wheel off of a bike (30mm wide internal rim, alloy, nothing too fancy and a 2.2 real knobby run tubeless) and compared it to the front wheel of the Stache 9…it was 11 oz heavier on the Stache. Now that is with a tube in the 29+, but I bet it takes a good deal of sealant to make that plus tire happy and sealant weighs something too. I am paying a lot here for something that is not paying me back a good deal of the time.
- I have ridden 27+. And I cannot imagine any trail bike situation I am likely to see where I would prefer a 29+ tire over that. Now I am talking about a real 27+ tire like the Nobby Nic 2.8″, not some wimpy semi-slick Plus tire. So while you can run 27+ in the Stache 9, it would be an extra cost to do so.
And so here is where I stand, and you may say,”Grannygear, you are full of it.” Perhaps I am, but it’s hard to come to any other conclusion than where I ended up. In the end, as well done as this Stache 9 is, and it is very well done, hitting all the targets they set out to hit…light, playful, fun…it is not my 29+ tall cup of tea. In fact, in the last image shown below, we have JeffJ and the Stache 9 posed head to head with his personal Stache 8 build. To me, that Stache 8 is a better So Cal bike than the 9. Now I bet there are folks in the woods of some eastern state that will run to the Stache 9 and pass on the longer, yet capable Stache 8. And there I leave it, hopefully with some perspective to see where I am coming from. Although flawed, the Stache 9 is hardly a ‘bad’ bike and for some, the “flaws” I see as such might be to their favor…super short stays, biggy tall wheel/tire combo, etc.
Now JeffJ is next up. He might have a completely different take on things than I, so stay tuned.
Note: The Trek bicycle shown here was sent for test/review at no charge to Twenty Nine Inches. We are not being paid nor bribed for this review and we will strive to give our honest thoughts and opinions throughout.
I don’t normally comment but felt it was important to thank you for the in depth and honest review in a world where the opposite prevails!
I really wanted a 29+ Stache on first seeing it but started thinking about some of the same things you’ve mentioned here. I decided not to go for it without a test ride first (quite hard to come by) and to wait until a few other riders had reported back on it as well.
So, so useful and insightful. Thanks!
However, prepare to be burned at the stake for stating that chainstays can be TOO short. Shorter is always better. Whatever length you have, no matter if they are already short, even shorter would be better (repeat for wide bars).
I have a ROS9 and ROS9+. I agree that they are 2 totally different bikes. Given certain health problems at the moment, the + bike is very comforting in my situation due to the stability. Do you have any comparison between Niners take on this format versus Trek’s?
@All…thanks for the votes of confidence. It may not be popular but it is as honest as I could make it.
Unfortunately c_g was the guy that rode the ROS9+ so I have no comparison to make there.
gg
I bought my Stache 9 without reading reviews and without a test ride. I rode a friend’s Krampus around before a race but that was the extent of my experience on 29+. First off, this is not a bike for everyone. For me, I wanted a bike that was just fun to ride and this bike does that. I’m not bike packing, chasing PRs, just riding. I am using the bike for base miles and for this purpose, I love it. Very comfortable ride and if anything, it has helped me be more confident on down hills on my other bikes. Bought carbon wheels for it so I’m keeping my Stache for a bit. Turning the Mulefoot wheelet into my SS option. 😉 This bike is not for everyone so if you live in SoCal, hit me up, let’s ride and you can take my Stache out for a spin. Cheers.
Indeed a very interesting and thorough review. Good to read a bit more in depth opinion that is not like the other reviews. Up until now the Stache frame was going to be my next one, seeing that I am a happy Krampus rider that also is a avid LTHT rider.
Can you compare this bike maybe to both a Krampus (the 29+ godfather) and the Kona Honzo? (being the short chainstay 29er classic)
And how does it compare to the Singular Rooster that you had on test before?
Another great review. Really interesting and very thorough. Thanks GG! Surprised about the deep sand performance, I thought it would be closer to a fat bike there but I guess with 25% less tire width it makes sense.
@Michiel…Well here is the deal…you see reviews from three persons…c_g, Guitar Ted, and myself. So that means I seldom get, or actually no one always gets to ride all versions/models. Makes it hard to compare everything. If you like your Krampus, then I bet the Stache would be more agile and lighter. If you already like 29+ for all around trail use then the Stache is unique in that world. No Honzo time, but I did own a ROS9 for a bit. This Stache9 is way lighter and that is good, but if I had to pick one based on other critieria…handling, tire size, etc, for where I live then I would pick the ROS9. However I found the ROS9 to be nothing I wanted to ride enough to keep it.
@Bazz…This was nasty sand…no normal 29er would have made it more than a bike length or two. so the fact that the 3.0 tire crossed it at all was pretty good. A 3.8 tire would have done it with some small effort and the biggest fatties would not even have noticed it at all IMO.
gg
I like your reviews and I’m not going to argue, but I’ll tell you my experiences. I live in SW Idaho. There’s a lot of loose over hard, sandy areas, etc. So maybe it’s back to your horses for courses thing. But I just keep finding myself in situations on my Stache 7 29er that make me so glad I bought it.
I just find myself more ‘able’ on the Stache. I keep getting faster, setting PRs, etc. over my old Superfly 100. I never realized how much energy is wasted to your back wheel skittering when you climb until I rode the same hill on consecutive days with the 2.
I’ve only tried 1 27.5+ and my opinion is the reverse of yours, I just didn’t think that 27.5+ was all that. And the wheel/tire combo on the Stache was actually a little lighter (I tested the middle Fuse). I think that boils down to the Chupa’s, but still.
It’s a controversial bike though so I understand it’s not going to be a good fit for all. Hope everyone who’s thinking about 1 tries one. Preferably someplace pretty tough.
With respect to this statement.
Driveline is compromised. On the Stache 9, with the SRAM 1×11, if I was in the 42T cog and I backpedaled more than a quick 1/4 ratchet move, the chain would walk off the cog.
Do you have a tweaked hanger or proper spacing of the derailed to the cogs? I ask as I own a stache 9 and have no problem back peddling in the 42t cog. Suspect you have a minor mechanical causing the annoyance versus a overall sram 1×11 issue.
I also question the whole hitting your calf thing. I am 5 11 with 34 inch inseam on a large frame the only time I have ever hit my calf was after reading your comment and trying to hit my calf so I could figure out what you were talking about. I think I can do it but it takes some effort.
@Scott…I have no shifting problems that would suggest an alignment issue, but it interesting that you do not have that problem. I will look at that a bit more.
I was talking to another journalist from another website that had the issue so badly with calf interference that it ruined the test for him, but he had some big ol’ calf muscles. For me it is just a minor deal, but it is there.
gg
Cool GG
I thought I would mention the shifting thing as I was not seeing the issue. I also recall reading the write up by the big calf’er and thinking what the heck is he talking about and when I saw you say the same I had to go out for a ride and try it myself came back from that ride still sort of going huh?
On a side note I found it kind of funny you received back to back comments from “scott’s” in idaho. Although this one is from Northern Idaho and has no relation to the other one aside from the state they seem to share.
Scott
Great write up, nice to see some descent time based feedback. I’ve demo’d 2 of these 9+’s now and agree with many of your points. Conditions do play a huge roll in a bikes effectiveness. So, that with standing here’s my take:-
1.At 420mm the chainstays are short yes but not out of line with AM hardtails (most of which run 412-418mm) i never found the bike unstable at high speeds (25-33mph) due to anything other than tyre pressure variations/line choice. What i did find however is that, i couldn’t get the bike round tightish flat corners when laid over, without drifting wide….the only solution i’ve found to this is to shorten the stays..but as you rightly said there is a balance to be struck here.
2. the useable pressure window with the tyres is very small. For my weight between 11-13psi was what worked best.
3. I couldnt describe the frame as harsh…stiff yes, but in hardtail terms still reasonalbe. you need directness with a wheel and tyre like this, any lateral flex in a frame would be bad news when you really start pushing it hard.
4.The connection to the trail re steering, and line holding is a bit vague as you describe. Still usable but it requires a different technique and some forethought and early setup for obsticles. the reward though is crazy momentum. If you dont slow the bike down to much it really shines.
I’ve yet to ride a 27.5+… what would you say were your main differences/benifits in relation to the stach 9+ format.
many thanks.
@J Dogg…great feedback! Yes, you are correct, in that 420mms, where the sliders are all the way back, that this is not completely unique, but it is pretty short, and they get even shorter than that if you are running smaller tires or wheels. I agree that the bike was never unstable feeling, and I think that big tire diameter has to be a lot of that. Inherently stable. However compared to something like the ROS9 I had, which felt like it would turn very fast around any turn you pointed it towards, the 29+ wheels were still sort of slow…they do carve like crazy though and I was constantly over braking.
Yeah, I do hesitate to say harsh, but its direct! That raised chain stay steals some stiffness so that has to be compensated for I imagine. In any case, I recall the Stache 8 being quite pleasant for aluminum and the steel hard tail I am on right now is even better.
What I noticed with the 27.5+ was that it felt much more normal as far as the diameter I am used to, that being 29″, and had the same roll over, or darn close. But it had the traction that Plus brings in AND a nice ride due to the low tire pressure (like 29+). It had no self steer either. It felt playful without resorting to any extreme geometry and I could run 2X if I wanted to (Boost hubs, etc). Now I was riding a good example of a light yet full knobby tire in 27+. My fear is that Plus can be a real draggy experience if the wheel or tire is heavy. Neither the Stache 9 or the Scotts I rode had this issue, but……
gg
That rock section looks like pavement in the NE US.
Thanks for your insight and experience Scott. It however does not make my choices any easier 😉
I am a big fan of 29er long travel hardtails and I do love my rigid Krampus…I think I need to get my hands on a Stache over here, see what all the fuss is about.
@J Dogg: Also on my Krampus with Knards i find that the pressure window is very small. To soft and under braking and cornering the tyre deforms, and to hard and you don’t really have a 29+ advantage.
But now I am even more awaiting your review with regular 29er wheels and 27.5+. I can also see myself riding a Stache frame with 2.35 Hans Dampfs and a Pike as a proper all mountain hardtail.
“It almost feels boring.”
That was my fear.
“That rock section looks like pavement in the NE US.”
In the Southeast, too.
A lot of what we ride down south is on the gas/off the gas up and down stuff with a lot of roots and sometimes rocks. What’s your sense of how those wheels would fare when settling into a rhythm isn’t an option?
@Grant B…Well keep in mind that when I made that comment, it was in a scenario where I was just driving it quickly down a dry, hacked up, sandy single track. Normal 29er tires would be a bit sketchy here and there, but these just hardly noticed.
I think the “down south” terrain you mentioned would be great as long as you have any momentum to speak of. Dropping into holes or into root bundles would be pretty sweet on that big tire and the short back end would allow for any maneuvering you could pull off.
If you are coming almost to a stop all the time and then accelerating…no big wheel is good at that IMO, even a 29er. I have found 27.5 to be quite good when I am slow (like reeeeaaal slow), in rocks or ledges, and need to pick the wheel up and move it around. But as you go up in wheel size and speed increases, then momentum ramps up and gets really good.
gg
I just test rode a Stache 29 Plus today and I really liked it. It handled as well as my full suspension aluminum Epic with 2.4″ Ardents. The bike was quite nimble and playful and those big tires added much more than they detracted. Most of the things I didn’t like about it had more to do with the spec. The seat stays did rub my calves sometimes but it wasn’t a deal breaker. Trek could easily tweak the frame to solve this problem. The seat stay could easily be made thinner and moved closer to the tire. The Manitou fork topped-out every time I popped a wheelie. Sure wish Rock Shox or Fox would make a 29 Plus fork. For my riding ability and terrain (mountain west) the 1×11 drive train needs a 24 or 26 tooth chain ring to make those tall wheels into a good climbers. With the stock 30 tooth chain ring the bike was over geared and I couldn’t climb stuff I can climb with my Epic. I disliked the drilled rims on the bike. In my opinion, all rims should come tubeless ready. Bontrager needs to make Jackalope rims for the 29 Plus. If these issues were sorted, I would have bought the bike. I’ve test rode a few Plus bikes now and find the concept quite sound. However, God is in the details. The plus size concept is so new that many bike makers have not sorted out the spec to make a truly great bike.
The Bontrager Line Plus wheels on this bike make it pretty much a done deal. Having ridden the Stache 9 at a demo with the Line Plus wheels makes me want to piece one together. Tubeless ready. Like it should be. There’s a system for that…
@Mark, Just to let you know, the Mulefut’s that are stock rims on all the Stache Pluses are tubeless compatible out of the box. They come with a rubber strip the seals the holes. Mine’s never had a tube in it.
I wonder how well a 29″ Plus bike does in the snow. I have test ridden a few 26″ Fat bikes and found them very slow rolling, pogo excessively when pedaling, and have too much auto-steer. Would the 29″ Plus bike perform almost as well as a Fat bike on snow, especially if it was set up with an aggressive snow tire? Would the 29+ perform better in snow than a 27.5″ Plus bike?. Love to hear some feedback?!!!
I’m a big fan of my Stache 7. Been on it about two weeks now. I started looking at big wheels because my local trails can get rutty and sandy if it doesn’t rain for a week or so – so much so that I wouldn’t ride my 29er until it would rain and smooth things out and pack it down a bit. I’ve crushed my PRs on several of my local routes (by about 10%). I’m climbing slightly faster and descending much faster. My 29 on the decent could get fairly hairy – the 29+ is comfortable, just eats up the sand and cut up trail and it just plain makes the ride fun.
Like GG says, I’ve found that the front end will come up on you, but once you figure that out you are automatically shifting your weight to compensate and I haven’t found it to be a big deal after the first couple surprises. I haven’t had any issues with calves hitting the seat stays or with the backpedaling. I tried to make either happen today and couldn’t. The big tires aren’t infallible – I’ve had them get a little squirrelly on deep sand but I’m still playing with the psi and anyway I’m riding through patches that were basically unrideable on my 29.
Bottom line is that it took an average rider like me and made me a better rider than I should be.
I’m super keen to get one of these, as long as I can run it singlespeed. I haven’t yet heard of anyone using a Stache 9 as an ss. Can you tell me whether there’s still enough room for the 29+ tyres if you move the the wheel right forward? Can’t wait until these come out in Australia.
Cheers!
@Hal…Check out this pic from the OOB article. That is with the sliders all the way back. http://twentynineinches.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/DSC07220.jpg
gg