Editors Note: Twenty Nine Inches is starting a new semi-regular series of posts called “Thinking Out Loud About:”. In these posts we will be detailing out some thoughts and giving some ideas on specific 29″er related topics. Then we will invite you to “think out loud” in the comments section. You can add your voice to the discussion. (Keep in mind, these comments are moderated and we need to stay on topic!) Our hope is that by having our readers give their thoughts on specific topics, that manufacturers and industry folks will take cues from these comments and use them to make 29″ers and 29″er components better in the future.
Well………..we figure it wouldn’t hurt to at least try!
Thinking Out Loud About Tire Design For 29″ers.
Tires. The one component of a bicycle that connects you to the trail. Pretty important stuff. It can be argued that no other component on your bike has as big an effect on performance and ride quality as tires do. Obviously it also is one of the biggest necessities to accomplish building a 29″er- the right sized tire and in the right width.
Bontrager introduced tire designs that are “29”er specific” in 2008.
Originally, having any tire available in a 2 inch width that would fit a 700c/ISO 622 rim was cause for joy. However; as time went on, and new designs proliferated in 29″er sizes, questions about how 29 inch tires are designed arose. Do 29 inch tires necessitate a specific design separate from 26 inch designs? Bontrager seems to think so. In 2008 they announced that the entire 29 inch tire line up would be redesigned in the future to reflect a 29″er specific design philosophy. Tires designed from the drawing board to enhance a 29 inch wheels specific traits and strengths. Several of these models are now available. Does this design philosophy make a difference? Well, it is possible, as for example, we gave the 29-3 Bontrager tires a nod in our Top Ten list from last year. Or was that just a lucky coincidence?
Some would argue that what 29″er riders really need are not specific tread designs, but things that 26″er riders have enjoyed for years. That being wider, more aggressive tires, or faster, lighter race tires, and probably even more importantly, tires that feature technologies not seen in 29″er tires. UST, (which has been tried by the way), rubber durometers outside of the norm, bead treatments, side wall reinforcements, and the like top this list of “wants” by 29″er riders. Basically, more choices that reflect what the 26″er market has.
Some would argue that 29″er tires need more high end technologies in their construction, like this 29 inch WTB Dissent has.
Thinking Out Loud Now…… Do 29″er tire companies need to design specific treads for their 29 inch diameter tires, or do they need to make more high end construction techniques available? Shouldn’t we really be asking for both? Perhaps it might be a better idea just to focus on having most tires be made tubeless ready? What do you, the 29″er riders out there think?
Okay readers. Have at it in the comments section. But keep these ground rules in mind: #1: Comments must stay on topic. #2: Play nice! Overly negative, aggressive, slanderous, and rude comments will be deleted. Okay? Have fun!
Foam tires. Sooner or later, somebody is going to get the formula right. Custom tuned foam layers to provide a plush, reasonably lightweight, quick rolling, flat free, and most likely very expensive ride. Also, it would be nice if they were easy to install. Am I asking for too much?
…all I can tell you is that I was flatting sometimes 2x a weekend on my 26″ wheeled xc bike and I haven’t flatted since I bought my 29er.
Really fat low rolling resistance tubeless tyres.
(Possibly need wider chainstays and forks to go with them too.)
29ers need them because many of us are riding rigid.
Keeps things simple 🙂
Like most riders we go through a lot of tires trying to figure out what works best for your local trails. I like to see a rating system for speed, traction , and side protection. Also tires for rigid bikes could use some fresh ideas.
I think most genres are catered for with 29er tyres… DH notwithstanding… and now it is time for manufacturers to start refining what they have and ‘evolving the species’ so to speak.
Do we need 29er specific tyre designs? Yes. If it helps reinforce the strengths of a 29er and alleviate the weaknesses, definitely.
Better high end construction techniques? I think that goes hand in hand with pushing the envelope of design and with better construction comes better tyres. Win win for everyone I think.
The problem is is that everyone wants a tyre that works specifically with their local trails (me included!), and unfortuntely it isn’t possible for one tyre to cater to that every type of terrain and trail that riders lust after, so there will be the endless quest for the right tyre. Some find it easily, some don’t. A rating system as Dan suggested is a good idea as it gives riders an indication of what is more likely to work, but along with this standardising the widths so that they are a truer representation would also be good…
Perhaps companies need to look at the really popular designs, find out why they are popular and begin from there… As a result we might get that low rolling resistance, super grippy, reinforced sidewall, low weight, flat resistant, super cheap holy grail of a tyre we’ve all been lusting after…
1.9 race tires. How about a conti race king supersonic the size of the original ones that were oem spec on c’dales. 1.9 kenda sb8. I think 48mm actual measured mounted casing width and sub 500g is perfect for racing, high tpi count too. Geax how about an open tubular barro race to compliment the tubular version you are bringing out. 300 tpi rd tires ride much better than 127 tpi. We need high end construction race tires.
I’m going to say it now, UST tires will not make it in the 29er market. I also think that they will fade away from the 26er market. Tubeless ready tires cost less, come in more flavors and have proven to be viable. Plus, with tubulars peeking around the corner, overpriced UST rims and tires no longer make sense. Tubeless ready will reign supreme.
Take Specialized for example. They have UST and tubeless ready treads in a ton of sizes and tread patterns. All based off their 26″ tread designs, and they seem to work really well.
No need for “29er specific treads” This is just marketing BS. For what and where I ride, a Conti race king 2.2 is just about perfect: 630 grams – which is in the light but durable enough category, with good rolling and cornering. Wouldn’t mind a quick rolling 2.4 for my rigid bike. I think things are pretty good where they stand, but more options is always a plus. Tubeless compatibility is a must. I hear a lot of people around here wishing for an Intense microknobby in a 29″ size, for the smooth summer days.
@ ‘Anonymous’, there are lots of 1.9-ish light race tires that are sub 500 gram!
1.9 Kenda SB8?? Try a Bontrager XR1 Team Issue. Sub 500 gr, 48mm casing and 7 rows of SB8-like knobs. If I were Bontrager, I would have called it small block 7, if it were not for the risk of a small regiment of Kenda lawyers on my doorstep.
Bontrager also has the 29-0 and the 29-3 2.0″, but those are more like 1.8″. There are more choices in the 1.9″-sub 500 gram category: Notubes Raven and Crow 2.0″, Geax Barro Race.
The area that I find is quite underdeveloped is the ultralight high volume tire. This is the area between the 2.25″ Racing Ralph and the 1.9″ category dominated by Bontrager.
The Notubes Raven 2.2 and Maxxis Aspen do fit this bill at (at least) a real 2.0″ and 10 or 20 grams above 500 gr, but all of the other popular semi-knob, high volume tires like Race King or SB8 are a lot heavier. I would love a Race King 2.2″ with supersonic casing.
Furthermore, I agree with kcr on the 29er specific tread = marketing BS bit. All of the tires that I find to work very well for their intended conditions have 26″ versions too.
Lots of great thoughts – great article Ted.
Driving forward the availability and EASE of tubeless would be a benefit for all 26 or 29 – it’s still not that common generally outside the MTB fanatic fraternity if we are honest. Rim design not just tyre design seems to be the roadblock here. Not everyone has a shop compressor to ease the use of slightly poor fitting so called tubeless ready setups.
Judging from my experience of the incredible leap that high tpi numbers give from a road and cyclocross background, I’d surely like to see high tpi across the board more in the future and at better prices too. I assume that high tpi is even more effective at low (tubeless) pressures – anyone got data?
I more often than not have to write off a tyre due to sidewall cuts so anything in that area would be a benefit.
Not 29er specific, but I’d like to see a long life sealant (6m+). Fit AND forget.
@jeroenk, yeah notice all bontrager product. I run barro race, don’t want bontrager tires. Stans tires are bigger than I like, wider and taller. Bontrager seems to be the only one making these good race tires for their team guys.
Well, I’ve been searching for a tyre that most riders would be disgusted by. My requirements are, at least, realistic; because what I want is a relatively heavy tyre. There, I’ve said it.
If the tyre is to have all the features I want, the fact is; it’s going to be heavy; that’s the (figurative) price I’m prepared to pay for a fat tyre that has strong sidewalls which will thus give enough suspension effect on a rigid bike.
In motorcycle trials they’ve been using the same tread pattern for years and years, and they seem to do OK on all sorts of surfaces and gradients, including road-work, so that’s the tread pattern I’m after; and the design is in the public domain, no copyright issues.
I have only one bike, it has to do everything. On-road: pump the tyres hard, ride a while, stop pedalling and the bike rolls on and on. Probably flywheel effect. Off-road: run them near flat for the kind of grip a trials rider gets.
Riding fast? No thank you. Well sometimes I do, but mostly I want to pootle along, sure-footed, enjoy the surroundings, I’m in no hurry.
One thing that puzzles me: EVERY tyre advertised is a) the lightest possible weight, b) gives ultimate grip in the wet, c) gives ultimate grip in the dry, d) gives ultimate grip on rocky surfaces, e) gives ultimate grip on loose surfaces, f) is perfect for downhill, g) is perfect for climbing, h) gives you accurate steering, i) has the lowest rolling resistance possible, and j) is the result of extensive research and testing… ~ something doesn’t quite add-up here.
“Take Specialized for example. They have UST and tubeless ready treads in a ton of sizes and tread patterns. All based off their 26? tread designs, and they seem to work really well”
would love to try some of these but they don’t seem to exist in Australia !
I’m just submitting this because I forgot to tick the e-mail box.
Thank you. Over and out…
Geoff Apps, good points! Inevitably, yes, heavier is the likely result of any feature add. Re the observed trials tyre, that’s the rules: no knobbies in trials allowed – bit like UCI rule on cycloX for tyre widths and no disc brakes – keeps the sport ‘pure’ if limited in tech devt.
With such a limited tread design, what we would need then is handlebar adjustable pressure for terrain changes……
Ah, yes, many a time I’ve fantacised about a compressed-air container within the wheel space, for handlebar controlled tyre pressure adjustment on-the-fly.
As to trials tyre design restrictions: regardless, they still get great grip!
A true fat big volume tire thats not to heavy. There is a pretty nice spread for midsize tires at the moment, but we are still lacking the wider size tires. Dissent and Kodiak are a nice step in the right direction but they are aimed at the hopefully started AM/FR segment and are still not true big volume tires sadly. A true 2.5 in casing aimed at the rigid/trail segment with a weight under 1000g would be a big seller after a while. True it would not fit all frames but lots of rigid forks and some suspension ones as well. And after a while there would be forks and frames made for them as well, its just a process as usual…
I would love to see a good old fashioned tire roundup. Take the top twenty tires and put them through their paces on 4-6 different types of surfaces and rate them all. I know that would be a monumental task but a guy can dream, can’t he. Wet, dry, hard pack, mud, sand, asphalt, rocks, grass, rate them all buy the same four or five guys on one weekend. Any tire manufactures out there willing to sponsor such an event? Independent ratings for the top tires.
Nice discussion starter. Will the future have more bike specific tires? Different tires for HT than full squish? SS specific tires? Tires designed for rigid riders?
How about a green sealant that lasts for a year, is mess free(cartridges would be good).
A hook bead standard! 2.4 tubulars would be nice.
GT, great idea. Seems to me the only reason to keep making nontubeless ready tires are all the wheels that aren’t and the riders that won”t, so options are good. I like aggressive knobs on wide (2.2 and up) tires for climbing and turning in loose and/or rocky conditions. Since not all riders race, FR, DH, lighter, aggressive tires that will stand up to the demands of off road trails have a place. Get to the top, make it to the trails end, as much as tires cost, these expectations should be realistic.
@ anonymous “Stans tires are bigger than I like, wider and taller. Bontrager seems to be the only one making these good race tires for their team guys.”
What about Kenda Karma 1.9’s. I just put these on my Dos Niner. They weighed in at around 510 grams each and are not super fat…..
I can’t say that 29’er specific treads are needed either given there is so much varied conditions that people are riding in. A specific tread for the bigger diameter may be great in on location but completely suck in another. As much as we would all like to have the one “do all” tire I just don’t think it exists. Maybe you can get close but not perfect. More technology into tubeless ready and weight reduction would go a lot farther than size specific tread IMO.
In theory I think you could have a 29er specific design. The contact patch is different, why wouldn’t you layout your tread differently? Now it may be that the contact patch isn’t different enough to warrant a separate design from a 26er, but that’s for the designers to figure out.
The Bontrager tire in the photo above is a stellar tire and I ride it on the front of my Superfly 100. The 29er specific design is the stickiest front tire I have ridden to date . . . thus the evolution of the 29er specific tire is on track and should only get better with time.
I think the 29er specific tire tread is bs too. To be honest, I’m pretty happy with the plethora of options we have these days. The only thing missing as has been said above is a sub 1000g true 2.5. That and… MAXXIS: PLEASE MAKE THE HIGHROLLER 2.3 IN 29″! BEST TIRE EVER! GOOD ENOUGH FOR PEATY IS GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME! If it is not too much to ask… Maxxis, can you put tubeless beads on your tires? Its time.
Tires that don’t cost $50+. I’d be happy with those old 28 inch Smokes.
I don’t know if 29er specific tread pattern is a good thing or marketting BS because I have no idea what “29er specific” would even mean. Am I the only clueless one? What would make a tread pattern 29er specific? Knobbier on the edges to allow for more lean in corners?
29″ tires have a differenct contact patch than 26″ wheels, so differenct designs are needed.
It’s that simple.
Just a thought, because nobody else has brought it up yet.
Maybe test how the new crop of super-wide rims (like the Gordo and P-35) change the contact patch and profile of the bigger tires that exist already. If necessary, tweak those to work better – i.e. adapt to the flatter, wider center and push the ‘outside edge’ knobs a little further out.
… good thinking David S. by this simple modification from a standard 24 mm rim to a wide design (like P35s) you are altering a tire´s characteristics quite a bit.
I have tried and posted this briefly in my post on the Velocity P35s – there will be a word or more on this in the final review later this year :-).
In my opinion we already have a very decent selection of tires to choose from – only the often cited 2.5″ sub-1-kg tire is missing. Anyone out there prepared to step up? … and tubulars are just arounbd the corner as well.
Maybe I am missing something, but I ride the: WTB WeirWolf LT 2.55(58/55) 29” Race Tire
It is not light, but under 1000g
I ride this rigid. I have not tried it tubeless yet, but it does not seem to have super thin sidewalls.
Tread is overrated. Just give me a selection of tubeless 29er tires. Ill take the ability to run 23 lbs of air over any tread pattern.
For me – tubeless tires weighing more than 800gm. Anything less, and I’m flatting. I’m a big guy though so this probably will not appeal to all. I really really hate flatting. I suspect the new tough guy award will go to the Bontrager FR3. Really thick sidewalls and good volume. It did eventually swell.
My list of tough tubeless tires
1. Specialized Captain 2.2
2. Bontrager FR3
3. Geax Saguaro TNT
I diid tire testing and developmant for a number of companies in the past going back to the Farmer John. Honestly I never found a really bad rear tire. I still believe front specific is the way to go though. Problem is the cost. Even if you have a great relationship with your manufacturer it still cost 3k to open a new mold. Front and rear tires need to work together, drift together and stop together as seamless as possible. Balance is what I look for. I have always prefered tires that did everything well as apposed to a tires that excelled in one perticular area…..except mud. I personally would LOVE to see Tioga do the Red Pheonix in a 29in. The Cylex casing is amazing and gives the tire the quality of a tire .25in wider while still being lighter/faster.That said the one I would most LOVE LOVE to see is the Ritchey WCS Zmax 2.3 in a 29 inch size in a tubeless ready config…..HEAVEN !!
@Mark S
Ooooo…Zmax 2.3. THAT was a great So Cal tire. Excellent concept you pointed out…balance between the two ends.
I was diggin’ the Captain Control 2.2 rear and Wolverine 2.2 front until winter hit.
grannygear
@BillyGoat – The Weirwolf LT is a great tire, I have one on the front of my rigid bike. But mine only measures 2.25″ on my Arch rims.
At 6’4″ 220 lbs my only issue has been keeping tires from spliting at the side wall. Im not sure if its my riding style my weight or the variety of rocks waiting to gash my sidewall in Arizona? I have tried bonty dry X, Huchinson pythons, Spec fast trax, WTB nano raptor, exi wolfs, all of them have failed on the sidewall within 2-4 rides.
About two months ago a buddy at my LBS suggested the “Specialized El Capitan 2.2 Armadillo” They are a wider tire thicker sidewall with some beefy knobs and the rubber compound is pretty hard. One tire weighed 823 grams and the other weighed 832 grams.
At first blush I thought these tires would be slow because of the knobs and weight but they really suprised me with lower rolling resistance and the side wall strength has allowed me to run lower pressure than with any previous 29er tire at 25 psi front and 32 psi rear.
I would say this is the best all around tire out right now, a great compromise of high volume cush, sidewall strength, excellent knobs for cornering, and low rolling resistance for its knobs and weight.
The Schwalbe website had me fooled, I thought they had redesigned the Racing Ralph for 2010. It was just the same spiel they had for the 2009 redesign. I really like the RR but it’s gotta have a tougher sidewall to be an all around trail tire.
Michelin seems to have completely ignored the 29er market growth in the US, they refreshed their whole MTB line but have no big 700c offerings.
I am probably the person tire marketing is aimed at- I really want the mythical sub-650g 2.25 tire that is rock resistant and fast while having great grip in any condition. That’s not gonna happen soon.
Tom, have you tried the Snakeskin Racing Ralph? That seems to be your mythical tire right there. I have both and the snakeskin version has a noticeably thicker sidewall. I don’t have a ton of time on the snakeskin version but so far so good.
I agree that tread pattern is BS, especially the “directional” stuff. Ride them for a few months, then turn them around and I guarantee they work better even though they’re backwards. Nothing wrong w/ square knobs.
The old Fisher Fat Trax 2.2 was awesome, as is the Bontrager Jones (although the cheap casing wears quickly). Even the Hutchinson Mosquito rocks out of the box, but the sparse knobs wear out quickly. Nevegal and Small Block 8 just vary the size and density of square knobs.
So how about the casing? Let’s see some superfine fabric, maybe even some silk for what we’re paying? I think the key is a nice, fat (2.2 to 2.3), round shape w/ quality high-thread-count casing that has a protective coating of rubber well bonded. Then make it in a few weights so you can put more rubber on the rear. Supple is what grips the rocks and roots.
But please, enough of the bat wings and vector-force-analysis BS.
ridden a bunch of 26″ tires since 1979. always go back to specialized. i still have a pair of mint grey ground controls and ritchey red rubber wcs 2.3 unused. love the 29er no more 26″ so i got alot of tires to get rid of. the captains are the best all arounders for sure. fast rolling good sidebite and 640grms good sidewall that is not wallowy like the schwallbe at 28-30lbs at speed. my schwalbes didn’t last long weak sidewalls that sealent didn’t seal after scuffing rocks here in ct. just got a used rig singlespeed off ebay ridgid with the maxxis ignitor tire impreesive. have the bontrager 1.9 small block for fast dirt roads, trails and on/off road rides. wtb mutanoaptors good too. but specilaized has all the resoures to design great tread patterns and ned rules with his captain design. was riding a lynskey pro 29er now switched to the epic marathon 29er frameset. love the twentynineinches website. 29ers rule its like back in the seventies when moutain biking was new.
Oderus has a great point, UST is a proprietary standard that doesn’t make a lot of sense, it’s heavy, pricey and ridiculous. Bontrager’s TLR and Geax TNT make way more sense.
29er specific tread is right on, I’m pretty sure we can all agree that there is a difference between 26 an 29 inches, and with basic physics and mathematics you can easily prove there is a difference in any of the forces at play. As more engineers look into this, the more likely the chances of new and better tires will be developed.
I want to see more rating/naming schemes like Bontrager is doing, with tires being classified by trail style and purpose like the FR-3 and 29-3 are for the same conditions, but different bikes.
I think Eastern Woods Curmudgeon has a good point on the casing issue. I’d be interested to see what gains can be had with casing tech. I really like the standard Geax casing. It seems thicker than most but flexes nice. I think that is the key. Downhill 26″ tires feel amazing in the corners. So predictable. I think it is because of the thicker casings. If there is a way to come up with a thicker casing that is still light, I would be all over that.
The 29er specfic 29-3 2.25 Team is on the front of three of my bikes – the originally 26er XDX on the rears. Both are the best I can find for those rigs to date, so I am not sure that the 29er-only criterion is the most important. Certainly, if the 29-3 design is optimized for 29ers, I’m not smart enough to know how, but that is an exemplary tire.
Tubeless ready – absolutely the number one place for development to go, for me. Eliminating the concern over “converting” by focussing on the reliability, lightness and toughness of tubeless sustems would be the best thing tire designers could do. The TLR approach and Stans rims are excellent progress.
It seems to me that 29er tires seem to come to market as “dumbed down” versions of their 26er counterparts. Lighter sidewalls, shorter tread height, hard durometer rubber. Part of the appeal of riding 29 is the enhanced ability to tackle gnarly riding surfaces. However, when a 26er tire is produced in a 29er model with reduced features, we are robbed of some of that big wheel ability.
I would like to have what’s best in 26er tires be incorporated into 29er tires. For example, if the Kenda Nevegal works best for trail riding in a 2.35″, Stick-E rubber, reinforced sidewall format, that’s what I want in a 29er size. Please, manufacturers, don’t reduce the tread height, use only the basic rubber compound and lighten the sidewalls all in the name of saving weight when making 29er versions of your tires.
Basic tires are for basic riders. The very act of buying and riding a 29er indicates that the rider is likely well beyond the “basic” stage and expects more from their gear than “basic” functionality. I have bikes with enhanced capabilities. I don’t wan’t to offset that by being limited to tires with reduced capabilities.
So I wanted to hijack this thread for my own benefit as I’m looking for new tires for my two 29ers. I live in az and do most of my riding in the phoenix area. Only been riding for a little over a year with a large back injury interrupting it, but I’ve gotten my endurance up to where I’m going to be tackling some tougher trails in the very near future. I ride a vassago jabberwocky with the o.d.i.s. fork, which I absolutely love, but I’ve been running exiwolfs front and rear. I’ve had a couple of avoidable spills when leaning through turns, especially as the trails are getting dustier and dryer (remaining so for the next 6 months). I have velocity blunts, with surly hubs and wanted to hear some suggestions for some high volume, good cornerning tire setups. I’ve been thinking about a WTB Wolverine in the back, and possibly going to a really heavy duty tire like the kodiak in the front. What are your thoughts and recommendations?
@xjoshxstarkx: My advice would be to forget about the Kodiak, stick a Wolverine up front, and run your ExiWolf in the rear as is.
Amen, Adam on almost everything! But I’m just not sure I agree with you on the last part;
“The very act of buying and riding a 29er indicates that the rider is likely well beyond the “basic” stage and expects more from their gear than “basic” functionality.”
I’m not convinced that the bulk of 29er riders or even a very significant portion are exactly “shredding the gnar”. I think that is why we don’t get the big knobs and sticky compounds. Plus there seems to be a disconnect among the 29er community on what makes a good tire. I’ve said it before and I will say it again, “The downhill pros have tires (and pressure) already figured out!” There is absolutely no question as to which tires corner and brake the best, just look at what the top guys are riding. They often spend their own money to ride tires from manufacturers other than their sponsors and black out the logos. There is no better endorsement than that. Of course other issues of tire design need to be addressed as well like rolling resistance (easy from a tread perspective) and weight, but some of the big issues: compound, braking characteristics, cornering knobs, and casing behavior (flexibility/stiffness and durability) are already figured out. All that is missing is trying to get those characteristics to exist in a lightweight package.
What I am hoping is that the tire manufacturers will make tires that will inspire hard charging 26″ guys to switch over to 29ers (if that is possible).
As always, I’m not trying to make anyone mad here or offend anyone. I’m just trying to set the record straight.
I’m with some of the above posters.
I want a cross betwen a Surly Endomorph and a Schwalbe Fast Fred, in 622-76. Yes, 3.0″.
Sure, I’d need a new frame for it, but that’s fine. It would still fit forks. Float of an Endomorph, but reaching higher speed even in the soft stuff. More rideable on harder trail. Lighter as well. It would work on 35mm Velocity rims, and be around 1000g itself.
I can’t help but look back. For wet race conditions, I am not yet convinced by reviews, or must have missed some. A 1.9″ tire like the Conti Twister would be interesting.
And although it was dangerous, very dangerous on wet pavement, the Maxxis Minotaur 1.9 (more like 1.7-1.8) was an absolute racer winner over grass and muddy grass. It was my secret weapon for the first winter season where I got to win races. It could handle quite a bit of mud before it would lose out to a true mud tire. Tiny, fast wearing knobs that taller than wide.Hence the danger on wet pavement, the knobbies rolled.
The Bontrager XR Front 2.25 is still the best 29″ front tire for loose sand for me. I’d like this tire upgraded with the best materials, slightly lower knobs, but wide casing, a true 2.4″ like the Schwalbe Racing Ralph. Heck, use Schwalbe’s materials and machines for a 2.4″ XR, that’s be awesome. Some minor tweak might make the tread pattern more 29″-specific, gaining speed as well as grip/traction.
The older (26″ only) Racing Ralph pattern is the best non-29″ tread I’ve ridden for dry sandy trails. More allround than the Fast Fred which had an older spec level. That older RR in 29″ would be a real treat. The new one is only ok in sand due to its size, it seems, the tread pattern is a shy skinny gravel one.
A tire that suited me well in the 90’s was the Kenda Hammer I think. Loooong pointy lugs. Slalom ontrol down steep sanddunes was unreal for an old school made 1.95, stuck on a tall and short Giant bike. It was front-specific probably. I can’t remember that tire ever NOT giving me great speed and grip.
xjoshxstarkx : I have been riding 29ers in Phoenix for years and I would say the best tire is going to depend on two factors 1. if you plan on running tubes or no tubes? 2. How heavy you are?
If your running Tubeless out in AZ you need thick sidewalls like the geax suguaro, or Speci el cap armadillos. If your running tubes WTBs are great but ive had several sidewall failures with wtbs running out at Hawes, south mountain, white tanks and the sonora preserve.
If you want absolute reliability in Arizona go with the Spec el cap 2.2’s or Geax.
Thanks GT and BigT for the response, that was very helpful. I’m thinking I may keep the exiwolf in back on my jabberwocky and niner EMD, and try a specialized Captain armadillo or Eskar in the front on the jabberwocky and maybe the wolverine on my niner EMD. Last question (and I think I already know the answer from BigT), but how are the WTB’s tubeless? BigT mentioned that the sidewall is a bit thin compared to the specialized. Also, which sealant do you recommend for az? I’ve heard complaints about the sealant getting dry and beading up in the heat out here. Thanks again!
Why can’t Kenda just make a 2.35″ DH casing Nevegal that weighs about 1200/1250grams?
That’s all I want.
@xjoshxstarkx: I’ve been running some WTB stuff tubeless recently with good success. In fact, I just rode in El Paso with some WTB Prowlers tubeless that worked just fine in all the cactus and rocks.
Recent WTB product, (2009 and newer) has impressed with the tougher feeling sidewalls and stiffer feel to the casing with them set up tubeless.
xjoshxstarkx : yeah pretty much all sealants dry up after about two months in none summer months, and about 3 weeks in the summer time. I have been mixing two sealants to make it last longer. The slime sealant lasts longest but is probably the least effective sealant. I like the Vittoria sealant it’s more expensive but it lasts much longer in Arizona.
I would like to see a 2.0 mudtire with strongsidewalls. The idea of a 2.35 ritchey z-max is also a good one.
Specific designs are a difficult call, because every tire i rode (26” mutants) did there work
very good. Is there than a need for it?? i really don’t know. I guess it drives the price higher.
And then the race for bigger wheels (than 26”) is still going on. I have inside info of some manufacters who are experimenting with a new size — the 584 rim / tire– so technical a 27” design. It’s more than a rumor . Maybe that’s the reason the great brands are holding back a bit.
I love the 29” but maybe is this the solution to get lighter tires/rim and still benefit for the larger wheels than 26”. Do we need than a different tire design??
Got ’em!
After a protracted transaction with Sage Cycles, a pair of WTB Dissent 2.5″ tyres finally arrived at Cleland Towers.
For some reason, I can’t find these available in the UK.
They’re wide and strong, and heavy. I’ve coupled these with 23″ motorcycle tubes so I can run them at about 5psi. I’m not sure about the exact internal pressure because my gauge only starts at 10psi.
Pinchies don’t seem to be a problem and grip is very impressive.
Next step?
I recently discovered some arcane trials pattern tyres in the size 70-635. It took a trip to Germany to track down a pair of rare box-section 635 alloy rims. These tyres are 31″ diameter and it’ll be interesting to see how they perform in this winter’s british mud and gloop.
If successful, it’ll make a new category in the wagon-wheel movement!
An update on my last post (if anyone gives a shit) regarding the 70-635 tires I’m about to build the wheels for ~ you can now see a photo of one on http://www.clelandcycles.wordpress.com under the tab ‘evolution’, or there’s an associated flickr stream where you can also see a picture of one. However, it is likely anyone reading this will think the whole idea to be stupid in the extreme. But there may be one, or even two people who will understand what it’s all about.