By: “c_g”, Grannygear, and Guitar Ted
Welcome to our report on the Gates Carbon Belt Drive System: Twenty Nine Inches has been intensively testing and researching the Gates Carbon Belt Drive System over much of the last half of 2010. In this final report we offer an analysis on the belt versus traditional chain driven bicycles, especially single speed mountain bikes. We also detail out our thoughts on how the belt drive affects the bicycle and its other components.
The previous two parts to this report can be seen here and here.
To recap briefly from the last report, we found that the Gates Carbon Belt Drive was a system that could work well out in the field, but while it is workable, it isn’t infallible. There were “hiccups” and reported failures from some riders, and even some issues that arose from our own testing. Okay, so nothing is perfect, but there is more. We left off last time by saying this:“While it is one thing to get positive performance experiences with the belt drives, it has to be asked, “At what costs?””
Design Compromises: While it is true that the Gates Carbon Belt Drive System will work on a mountain bike single speed application, there are several things that have to be compromised, in our view, to fit the system on a mountain bike. Let’s use the tested Raleigh XXIX as an example. In our view, this most dramatically shows what the compromises in the system are, since the XXIX existed as a chain driven bike before the 2011 model year.
Previously, the XXIX sported a reasonably short chain stay for a 29″er especially. At 17.25″, and with clearances for up to a 2.4″ tire on a 28mm wide rim, the XXIX was well regarded by enthusiasts as a great climbing single speed. However; with the special offset of Gates cogs, their inherent width, and Gates requirement to run a bigger diameter cog up front to help combat ratcheting, the XXIX had to undergo some radical changes to accommodate the belt. The 2011 model saw the severe crimping of the chain stay to allow for the severe inboard set of the front cog. This forced the designers to push the rear tire backwards, and give up some tire clearance in the exchange as well. Now the older shorter chain stay had grown to over 18″!
Obviously, mass production requirements had something to do with what belt length Raleigh could get to make a certain number of XXIX’s, and perhaps a shorter chain stay length may have been possible, but the point we are making is that any lengthening of the chain stay, and any loss of tire clearance is a step backward in terms of design and performance on this model. Yes: The belt worked really well on this bike, but the cost to have it on there! It really negatively affected performance.
Our European contributor, “c_g” also reported that the Mi-Tech 29″er he tested, (report here), that was designed from the onset to accept the belt system, was extremely stiff riding. This is another result of parameters Gates is placing on frame designers to accommodate a belt drive system. Gates specs call for a minimal torsional and lateral flex in the chain stay. To achieve such required numbers, frame designers are beefing up the chain stays to the point that flex is nearly wiped out. Good for the belt-bad for the ride quality. Supporters of Gates have said that designers can overcome this, but again, at what cost to riders? One has to also wonder if, as “c_g” alludes to in his reports, any current frame is a bad choice for a conversion to a belt driven mountain bike. Special frames for a limited amount of benefit and a loss of ride feel? That and a possible increase in costs to recoup research and development costs on an already expensive system?
Following are comments from all three of the Twenty Nine Inches staff on their experiences and thoughts on the Gates Carbon Belt Drive System.
The first one up is Grannygear: Would I buy a serious single speed mountain bike with a Gates Carbon Drive belt drive on it? That is really the question in the proverbial nutshell. The answer is “not yet”. This is why not and also why I am keeping my options open. I do not think that, at this time, the requirements of a healthy belt system, that being a frame that is stout to the point of possibly detracting from the ride and handling qualities of a good bicycle, the work-around needed for the bigger ‘chain rings’, the finicky nature of the beast alignment wise, the tension issue and the way it binds on spinning parts, the oddness that complicates easy gear ratio changes, wear on the pulleys at the free hub (the rear pulley on the XXIX really should be replaced now, and that was only a couple of months of riding), parts replacement, and having to carry a spare belt to really feel good about big rides….it all combines to overwhelm the positives I think are there. The high required tension is one of my least favorite things about it.
And that is too bad as I really liked pedaling it. It was quiet (although I never really got it too wet or muddy), smooth, and never skipped on me. It survived three young and strong guys who wailed on it with only one ‘pop’ and that was when the bottom bracket had shifted over a bit and the belt had crept off-line. Even then, we finished the ride, corrected the alignment, and then entered it in a team 12 hour race. It did not break, it did not whine. It just worked, and it did it despite all the baggage, but I cannot ignore that load of luggage that comes with it. And, frankly, I am not sure how many of those things can be improved upon. The “not yet” part? Well, I did not hate it, and I hope that the refinement continues, and at some point in the future, it will be a premium system for a single speed mountain bike.
Until then, I will take a chain.: Grannygear
Next we have our European Contributor, “c_g”, and his thoughts:
OK it´s about time to put down some more experiences with the GATES Carbon belt drive. In most all aspects I agree with Guitar Ted and Grannygear on their experiences on the system.
• The prime issues are the high belt tension, that is required to have the belt engage securely. Bike parts are not designed for this and premature wear or failure can be the result. In my testing I have not had any problems with premature wear issues but then again I have split riding time between single speed and internally geared.
• In my testing in single speed mode I have only run gearing ratio (46/24) which had been really tough in places. Had I wanted to modify – the current choices of ratios are limited and costly as they involve new cogs and belts. For single speed use I find its primary advantage the absolute freedom of maintenance once set up properly – but honestly; how difficult is it to keep a single speed drive train running smoothly, not that much.
For me it is a different story though when running a belt in junction with internal gears. Here the benefits of a mostly maintenance free system for epic multi day adventures IS a huge benefit in my eyes. Here the need for changing gear ratios is non existent and so the only drawback over standard chains is the initial purchase price of belt components. After the initial mounting, which involves the same level of getting the chain line perfect, it turns pretty much into a set and forget system.
With this said, I have set aside a rig with exactly that configuration and will be running it for a good portion of the year both in mountain bike application and in utility use. I will report back about my findings periodically – should there be any.
Ride On,
c_g
Now here are Guitar Ted’s thoughts on the Gates Carbon Belt Drive System:
Going into this test, I was rather skeptical of many of the claimed benefits of the Gates Belt Drive. For a bit of back round, I should say that I have been a single speeder, primarily, since hopping on board with 29″ers in 2003. I have run single speed drive trains through the worst of mud, sand, salt, snow, rain, ice, and dirt with no failures. Certainly, I have replaced parts at times, but this was simple, and more importantly, cheap to do. In my mind, the belt had a high bar to clear. A very high bar.
First of all, the belt drive works…..technically. However; I see the bicycle, and in this case, the single speed off road bike, as a system. Taken as such, the belt drive didn’t fare as well. In fact, I would say it was a poor alternative to the over all system we have as a single speed off road bicycle now. Why? Because, (as Granny Gear covered), the belt drive requires too many design compromises, has limited hard ware choices, (as “c_g” also mentions), and it is just too darn expensive. Compare cog and belt prices. Keep in mind that for just one alternative gear range choice, you will need a minimum of a rear cog and a new belt, if the bicycle you are using will even allow for that change. The overall price for both parts alone can be around the $200.00 range. You can buy a lot of cogs and chains for that much money. Not to mention the costs involved in getting a belt specific frame, which are not all that common, and are necessary for optimal belt drive performance. Contrast this with the fact that almost any mountain bike can be successfully converted to a single speed.
So, what of the advantages of a belt? Belt drive fans will tell you of several “advantages” over chains, but only two things they say really matter. (The rest are not really advantages over chains in single speed applications.) One: Belt drive set ups are lighter than chain drive. Two: Belts and cogs will outlast chains and chain rings in terms of lifespan. This is somewhat offset by the fact that the looming early wear issues on the bearings are still out there, the belt cogs wear prematurely, the efficiency of the entire drive train suffers, and obviously, in terms of costs.
Conclusions: The short and simple is this: Belts are not better than chain drive systems. Not in terms of single speed mountain biking. Belt drive has some advantages, but costs, unknown bearing wear issues, problems with cog wear, design constraints in terms of frames, and the limited availability of cogs and belts in all gearing ranges is holding belt drive back. For now a chain drive single speed just makes far more sense. In the light of “c_g”‘s thoughts on internal rear hub driven bikes with belt drive, we agree that this solution for low maintenance mountain biking makes far more sense now, and likely will be the best application of a belt drive for mountain biking into the future.
GT, you say only two things really matter, the fact that they’re lighter and the fact that they last longer. I call shenanigans. For many of us, not having to clean and lube the chain constantly is a *huge* upside. I’m not saying this necessarily changes the overall balance of positive/negative, but to leave it out as a major benefit in the minds of many people seems remiss.
@Jim in Santa Cruz: Glad you brought that up JiSC. You see, having a chain drive does mean that occaisionally you will need to lube the chain, yes. Cleaning a single speed chain? Not as often as you’d think. 😉 Again, I referenced the fact that I have single speeded in arguably the most heinous of conditions throughout my single speeding period which has been since 2003. It isn’t like I have not lived through this.
That said, the oft cited “benefit” of no lube/no cleaning of the belt is somewhat misleading, and in fact, could lead one to becoming ignorant of taking care of the rest of the drive train. Look at the cogs. They are aluminum and subject to wear if they get dirty. Even Gates aficionados will admit that you do actually have to clean the system after extremely dirty rides with a hose. 😉
So, there ya go. I’d call that “maintenance”, wouldn’t you? 🙂
And further to my point, the cogs, as mentioned, do wear. You have to keep an eye on them or they will eventually start causing ratcheting, and prematurely end the life of you belt. Think I’m singing a tune? Go to Phil Wood& Co. website, check out what they are doing to help belt users get longer life from rear belt cogs. (Stainless steel cogs, which wear longer, but are heavier, thus taking away some of the advantages of weight the system has.)
Finally, “not having to clean the chain and lube the chain” because you ride a belt drive bike does not absolve you from maintenance on a bicycle, which is the somewhat implied message people get when they read this. There is still maintenance/inspection that needs to happen with regards to the rest of the bike, and as I have shown, in regards to the belt drive itself.
No cleaning and no lube? Maybe not technically speaking in terms of how you take care of a chain, but there still is maintenance, cleaning, and therefore the claim Gates fans make is not really a benefit. That’s my take on that. 🙂
Thanks for a great round up.
This is an exciting issue – in essence, belt drive seems to be a great starting point for an highly integrated bike based around an internal hub drive. This probably translates to a proprietary system (to a varying degree) where one has to design most components with belt drive in mind from the first bolt. Use off the shelf parts where possible, but special parts such as hub/ bearings to handle the greater tension, frames with enough drive line stiffness but sufficient vertical compliance and so on must be application spesific. The Trek Soho (town bike) is a pretty good example of what can work well if designed with belt in mind. Not perfect, but a step in the right direction.
Mi:tech has also taken the first step in the right direction, but let’s see who takes the next step, maybe with the new Alfine 11-speed hub. A bigger maker like Trek or Spec, maybe, as it takes some developement muscle or a small independent?
Belts seem like a great commuter bike set up, IGH or SS. The stiff frame required is a good thing if you plan to load the bike down with stuff on your commute.
Is wiping/lubing down a high quality SS chain very time consuming? Maybe belts are the wave of the future, but I still think a chained SS is very low maintenance and I ride my SS mostly in winter crud after being coated with the brine that is used on the local roads. I used to use a chain cleaning device and periodically remove the chain to clean it. That was a PITA. The chains are much better these days so I just coat it liberally and then wipe it down occasionally with Prolink to clean it and typically lube it lightly before every ride with a different high quality lube.
Some of us just hate the tattoo. 😉
@Jim in Santa Cruz
Speaking for myself, I think the no-lube thing is excellent on a commuter or town bike….but then so would a sealed chain system, but I digress.
I lube my chain every few SS rides and ‘clean it’ by running a stiff brush over it and then running it through a rag. Good enough. Drop some Ernesto’s Soy Lube on it and off I go. Would I rather not have to do that? Sure. But it does not offset the other issues enough in my mind to make it a serious issue. I live in dry conditions, but GT is in the snow melt and muck. If it does not bother him….
I can’t remember ever hearing someone say, “Man I hate lubing my chain once a week!”. That is a big MEH! to me. YMMV.
grannygear
For me it’s not so much the lubing my chain once a week (though I don’t like this either – call me lazy), as the getting lube on my pants and/or tearing them – I ride the same bike to work that I ride to the trails, and also occasionally like to ride in sweats. Conventional chain/sprocket/lube drivetrains not only get lube on me, but have stained and torn my clothes repeatedly, which is irritating.
I’m still on the fence about belt systems given that the tension required appears to be both difficult to reliably obtain and to destroy bike hubs in the process, but for me at least, avoiding oil on the external parts of the bike is all upside.
@simenf A belt drive 11 sp Alfine system is available on Bike Friday’s super quick folding Tikit. For such bikes the lack of a greasy chain is a big deal. I think that commuter bikes and townies will be the biggest market. If the bike manufacturers can get the prices low enough maybe we’ll have more people riding around on simple bikes that don’t squeak.
EkW
@simenf
YES! I have thought the same things for some time, even before any test rides…that the system approach should not be reverse engineered from existing chain drive bike standards, but should be a ground up approach to the unique demands of the Gates Carbon Drive.
What would that look like? Not sure. But just putting a coupler in a seat stay is NOT what it looks like. Pretty sure.
grannygear
@Jim in Santa Cruz: Chain case. Done. 😉
By the way, in colder temps I ride in Dickies and blue jeans all the time. (Did today, as a matter of fact. :)), There are ways and means to keep clothing out of chain/cogs. I haven’t had an issue with a pant leg in over five years. That includes grease stains, tears, whatever.
Just sayin’. It can be done. 🙂
While I enjoy the smooth and quiet ride of belt drives, I agree that a chain is still better for off road usage. I think the belt drive shines first and foremost as commuter gear. You don’t have to worry about staining your paint legs and the fact that you don’t have to worry about cleaning and lubing it after riding home in the snow or rain. The Trek Soho is a perfect example of where a belt drive excels over a chain.
I should be getting a first prototype of a e stay 29er I have been working on in the next couple of weeks,, despite the flexy flyer reputaion estay bikes had back in the day, i think with modern hydro forming technology and modern methods it should be possbile to get a compliant yet stiff frame design,, just think of it as the front triangle of a FS bike,.
now an estay bike allows for plenty of mud clearance very short chainstay length and if it stiff enough should solve all the clearance and offset problems the belts have ,, ,,
so maybe the ideal format for a belt bike would be an e stay bike ,, mine has my own design swapout dropouts to be either fixxed or adjustable ,,
@adrian, lol, thanks for reminding me that I have an old Nishiki Alien in my garage attic. I have a new project now…….what to do, what to do.
Chains and cogs are cheep. I can go to any bike shop and get these and not wait a week for it to come in (if not longer). With lubricating the chain, the laziest and most efficient way to do it is do it often before it becomes black as coal. It takes me no time to lay some Triflow on my XXIX and wipe it down. A chain is 15 bucks and I can add links when needed I’m not sold on the belt drive
I need to thank you very much for your work you have made in writing this post. I am hoping the same top work by you in the future also.
For anyone thinking of converting an old e-stay bike – I have already done this and the flex was such that the bike was unrideable up any sort of hill.
It was fixed by using a home made snubber – it took a few different versions until I had one stiff enough to do the job. It then worked fine, but adds complication which is not particularly simple.
Most old bikes have too much flex IMO. After all bikes are designed with built in flex because it is promoted as a “good thing” (feel etc – I disagree).
A specially designed e-stay bike should be ok.
I have a commuter bike with a Gates belt drive using an Alfine 8 speed hub. I got it about two months ago and have about 1000 miles on it now. I have about 1006 miles on the bike though because I had to walk the thing back home today from six miles into my commute. Pedaling hard up a small hill I heard a pop and the pedals then just spun without any power going to the rear wheel. Once home I took things apart to find the cause and discovered that the aluminum cog had sheared off the three tabs that fix it rotationally to the hub axle. I googled that issue and see that others have had this failure too, with reports of the problem going back over a year now. Gates has apparently replaced the all-aluminum cogs with ones that have a steel insert that carry the tabs.
I’m headed over to the bike shop tomorrow where I bought the bike to see what they have to say about this. If you’re thinking of getting a setup like the one I have, make sure you don’t get sold one with the all-aluminum cog or else plan to pedal very lightly! I’m 180 lbs and a pretty strong rider but I wasn’t pedaling all that hard up the little hill when the cog failed.
I spent a long time thinking about belt vs. chain. The only advantage that was attractive was the idea of better wear but I don’t think that is the case yet.
Now I am testing a new chain that should last longer than normal chains.
http://forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/monster-chain-822154.html