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	<title>Comments on: On Gearing For 29&#8243;ers: An Editorial</title>
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	<description>29er Bike Reviews, Rumors and News</description>
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		<title>By: maheoway</title>
		<link>http://twentynineinches.com/2009/10/19/on-gearing-for-29ers-an-editorial/#comment-64391</link>
		<dc:creator>maheoway</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Nov 2009 14:48:11 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>GT
Mountainbike Action, new issue, reports that Shimano has a 29er specific drivetrain in the works, any info from your sources?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>GT<br />
Mountainbike Action, new issue, reports that Shimano has a 29er specific drivetrain in the works, any info from your sources?</p>
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		<title>By: Blatzwarrior</title>
		<link>http://twentynineinches.com/2009/10/19/on-gearing-for-29ers-an-editorial/#comment-61897</link>
		<dc:creator>Blatzwarrior</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 00:15:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://twentynineinches.com/?p=3854#comment-61897</guid>
		<description>in reality, the 12-36 isnt going to cause any issues, but only creating options and choices.  From a 1x9 perspective it creates something i have been longing for, to throw a monster ring on the front and still have decent high end and low end options.  i feel like i can run at 36 or even a 38 front ring and still have plenty of options for climbing and sprinting,

Bring on the hubcap gearing</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>in reality, the 12-36 isnt going to cause any issues, but only creating options and choices.  From a 1&#215;9 perspective it creates something i have been longing for, to throw a monster ring on the front and still have decent high end and low end options.  i feel like i can run at 36 or even a 38 front ring and still have plenty of options for climbing and sprinting,</p>
<p>Bring on the hubcap gearing</p>
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		<title>By: Guitar Ted</title>
		<link>http://twentynineinches.com/2009/10/19/on-gearing-for-29ers-an-editorial/#comment-61814</link>
		<dc:creator>Guitar Ted</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:16:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://twentynineinches.com/?p=3854#comment-61814</guid>
		<description>@Big Chris: On a 1 X 9 set up, your focusing primarily on the chain ring placement and chain retention on that front chain ring. Chainline should be such that on the middle of the cassette your chain should be straight to your front chain ring, ideally. Usually this would equate to the middle chain ring position of a triple crank, or the inside of the spider on single speed cranks. (Might be different if you are using old school square taper cranks, or adjustable chain line BB&#039;s) 

Then you would want to have a device that keeps your chain from jumping off the front chain ring. Paul Components has an excellent one and I suggest you check that out for a great example. A good cheap way to go is to use a front derailluer and lock its position in with the limit screws. (Basically a less elegant solution that is the same as the Paul Component one) 

Some folks get away with nothing more than a &quot;jump stop/chain watcher&quot; type device. A great tip is to always use a single speed specific front chain wheel as it will have no profiled teeth and taller teeth which helps greatly with the chain retention issues. 

Hope that helps!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Big Chris: On a 1 X 9 set up, your focusing primarily on the chain ring placement and chain retention on that front chain ring. Chainline should be such that on the middle of the cassette your chain should be straight to your front chain ring, ideally. Usually this would equate to the middle chain ring position of a triple crank, or the inside of the spider on single speed cranks. (Might be different if you are using old school square taper cranks, or adjustable chain line BB&#8217;s) </p>
<p>Then you would want to have a device that keeps your chain from jumping off the front chain ring. Paul Components has an excellent one and I suggest you check that out for a great example. A good cheap way to go is to use a front derailluer and lock its position in with the limit screws. (Basically a less elegant solution that is the same as the Paul Component one) </p>
<p>Some folks get away with nothing more than a &#8220;jump stop/chain watcher&#8221; type device. A great tip is to always use a single speed specific front chain wheel as it will have no profiled teeth and taller teeth which helps greatly with the chain retention issues. </p>
<p>Hope that helps!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: BigChris</title>
		<link>http://twentynineinches.com/2009/10/19/on-gearing-for-29ers-an-editorial/#comment-61805</link>
		<dc:creator>BigChris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 16:07:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://twentynineinches.com/?p=3854#comment-61805</guid>
		<description>To add

I want my dinner plate on the table and in my cassette

out</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To add</p>
<p>I want my dinner plate on the table and in my cassette</p>
<p>out</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: BigChris</title>
		<link>http://twentynineinches.com/2009/10/19/on-gearing-for-29ers-an-editorial/#comment-61803</link>
		<dc:creator>BigChris</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:57:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://twentynineinches.com/?p=3854#comment-61803</guid>
		<description>Choice is nice. Real choice that is.  Functional choices.  and if part of ones choice is a demand for gear options and reduced weight then so be it and let the record show to all these companies that function and options drive sales and innovation perhaps more than the insider industry elite

Consumer demand can drive innovation as well as the elite racers in each discipline.  bring on the color too if that is what people want

The thing about 29ers is that it is indeed consumer demand driving this niche.

I like this discussion, however trying to have this discussion on MTBR or any uberbling boys club we get chest beating and name calling who is super gnar and who is not and who worries about weight on bike vs weight on gut and who is more core who was the first member of the forum. blah blah

thanks for the opinions GT

As a big dude my riding style has changed over the years.  I have gone from an early 90&#039;s 6&#039;4&quot; 180 pound sick fitness roadie and XC mtb hardtail driving climbing machine to a 225 base pedaling roadie who bounces up and down on his FS.  I have never really embraced the FS apart from the obvious advantage in rough terrain on the down side of a climb because of the pedal bounce and yes I have tried them all. but that is me

I to this day am not comfortable spinning up hill in a granny gear because of my size on a 26er. Balance is an issue.  I am on top of the bike.   I rode a 29er and felt I was in the bike and the need for travel in the back was a non issue for my slow ass and that was that.  never went back.  and i could comfortably have my hardtail option back

Now that I am in the bike and balance is better I look for that spin gearing and the 36 might just work.  I might be in the minority but I appreciate the option and demand less weight in the future

Especially on a 1x9

With that said the 1x9 is new to me so can someone point me to 1x9 set up option articles so I don&#039;t have to read through all the uberwankers on mtbr.

Regards

Chris</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Choice is nice. Real choice that is.  Functional choices.  and if part of ones choice is a demand for gear options and reduced weight then so be it and let the record show to all these companies that function and options drive sales and innovation perhaps more than the insider industry elite</p>
<p>Consumer demand can drive innovation as well as the elite racers in each discipline.  bring on the color too if that is what people want</p>
<p>The thing about 29ers is that it is indeed consumer demand driving this niche.</p>
<p>I like this discussion, however trying to have this discussion on MTBR or any uberbling boys club we get chest beating and name calling who is super gnar and who is not and who worries about weight on bike vs weight on gut and who is more core who was the first member of the forum. blah blah</p>
<p>thanks for the opinions GT</p>
<p>As a big dude my riding style has changed over the years.  I have gone from an early 90&#8242;s 6&#8217;4&#8243; 180 pound sick fitness roadie and XC mtb hardtail driving climbing machine to a 225 base pedaling roadie who bounces up and down on his FS.  I have never really embraced the FS apart from the obvious advantage in rough terrain on the down side of a climb because of the pedal bounce and yes I have tried them all. but that is me</p>
<p>I to this day am not comfortable spinning up hill in a granny gear because of my size on a 26er. Balance is an issue.  I am on top of the bike.   I rode a 29er and felt I was in the bike and the need for travel in the back was a non issue for my slow ass and that was that.  never went back.  and i could comfortably have my hardtail option back</p>
<p>Now that I am in the bike and balance is better I look for that spin gearing and the 36 might just work.  I might be in the minority but I appreciate the option and demand less weight in the future</p>
<p>Especially on a 1&#215;9</p>
<p>With that said the 1&#215;9 is new to me so can someone point me to 1&#215;9 set up option articles so I don&#8217;t have to read through all the uberwankers on mtbr.</p>
<p>Regards</p>
<p>Chris</p>
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