The event in Kansas was attempted and for reasons of poor health was cut short for me a bit. This post is about the Fargo and how it did in the brutal, rocky, dusty conditions in the Flint Hills of Kansas. I will recap from the same photos I used last week in this post so there will be some continuity to this discussion.
The Course: The Dirty Kanza 200 is a gravel, dirt, and pavement ride through the Flint Hills region of east central Kansas. If you think of Kansas as flat and boring, well……you need to go here! At any rate, the roads are a mixture of flint gravel, bed rock out cropping, small drops, (up to a foot and a half), water crossings with sharp rocky bottoms, straight up dirt double track, and a bit of pavement that traverses a course of 200 miles over tall hills with long, steepish grades that can end up in climbs of up to three miles. The wind, which is always around out there, was especially wicked this year with gusts at times of over 40mph and temperatures that hovered in the mid 90′s for most of the day.
The Set Up: The performance of the entire set up was spot on. Not one hiccup, skip, or worry was experienced at all. This was a great thing, obviously, but was a small surprise as well, given the super rough sections that Dirty Kanza’s course covered this year.
The Banjo Brothers top tube bag was a big success. It held whatever I tried to jam into it and didn’t flop around, even when I inadvertently unleashed one of the stem straps. No worries, I reattached it on the fly and it wasn’t a mistake that caught me out. I should mention that the Salsa’s extended head tube design makes one of these sorts of bags a great fit.
My “found” seat bag performed flawlessly as well, never coming loose at all, staying stable, and not falling apart. The Fargo was weighted just right, I thought, with this load here and the water on the fork blades. It felt very balanced.
Here is something I found pretty interesting. The Edge Composites wheels with the American classic hubs didn’t flinch, flex, of fail me in any way. The WTB Vulpine tires might possibly be the best rocky, dry, hard pack conditions tire I have ridden in terms of speed, durability, and climbing. A quick note: The course had several low water crossings that featured rocky bottoms. After each one I crossed, the casualties along the roadside from pinch flats were numerous. Not a problem for the wheels and tires I rode, and I slammed through every water crossing at speed and with impunity. I would definitely trust this set up for any long trip, adventure, or race. (And yes- I was using tubes)
The carrying of water on the bike instead of on my back was a great improvement in an event like this where a full suspension bike is overkill, too heavy, and slow. The Fargo arrangement, with two bottles on the fork blades, is no problem at all to steer. In fact, I didn’t notice any improvement after I emptied the bottles on the fork blades. The steering felt exactly the same to my mind. My only regret is that I didn’t mount a sixth cage under the down tube. As for retention of bottles, I would recommend that you use the available braze ons for a toe strap to hold the bottles in on the fork blades, or use a Cat Eye cage like I did, which was perfect for on the fly water bottle grabs and the cages never showed any signs of ejecting the bottles. Even over the rough, rocky drops and downhills that Kanza has on offer.
Conclusion: The Fargo exhibited the nice frame cush that I felt it had on my rides at Interbike. The frame rides better the harder you push it. The Fargo climbs great, out of the saddle sprints are straight forward matters. No surprises, no odd sensations. The drive train I was using is pretty much the same as a Fargo Complete, and it performed spot on. Shifts were crisp and were accomplished under power. The brakes were excellent, (but that has a lot to do with a careful set up on Avid mechanicals). No fade, plenty of power.
What would I change? I would go with a titanium seatpost next time, or maybe a Cane Creek Thudbuster, the course is that rough, but most likely a titanium post would suffice. I would go with the full compliment of six cages and bottles. Otherwise, I would change nothing. I was super pleased with my selections on equipment and the Fargo is a no brainer for this event. It could be set up as a “fast” bike with skinnier rubber, (although I seriously question that choice), and you could go even more minimalistic than I did to lighten the rig even more. Still, whatever you decide on equipment, to my way of thinking, you can not find a more efficient, comfortable way to hang a rider on a bicycle for this long, rough, and grueling event than a Fargo. Whether you are racing, touring, or riding for fun, the Fargo excels at this sort of thing. I can not think of any better bike for a mixed terrain ride than the Fargo from Salsa Cycles.

















Amen brother!! I’m sorry to hear you had to cut the race short, but not surprised in the least that the Fargo turned out to be the perfect steed on which to do the deed. It ROCKS in the rocks!! And the setup you were running is really sweet too… Much more pimped out than my personal Fargo, so I can imagine you were lovin’ life.
A ti seatpost is the perfect addition to the Fargo for long, bumpy rides. I went with a Moots Cinch post on mine and it’s incredible… A magic carpet for your bum. It almost feels like a ti frame with that thing on there. It works a lot like the fork does to take the stinging edge off bumps… Good stuff.
Talk to you soon, my friend.
Cheers,
MG
What do you think of a sprung Brooks Flyer saddle? I know the Ti seatpost would be lighter, of course, but I’d run a Brooks anyway as that’s all that suits my @$$.
MG: Thanks, I think a titanium seatpost is soon to be seen on my set up for sure.
jamesmallon: A Brooks Flyer would be cool if you sit upright more. I think the back is too wide to sit on my Fargo in the position I have which is more of a “rider draped over the bike”, than sitting more upright, which this particular Brooks model is made for.
If Brooks did a sprung B-17 that was as long as a Selle Anatomica saddle it might be the perfect leather saddle set up. As is, I wouldn’t bolt a Flyer on my bike, as the saddle isn’t long enough for me to avoid hitting the front hardware on my…….erm, software- if ya catch my meanin’.
Do you think the stiff carbon rims/wheels had a contributing factor to your desire for a Ti post and/or thud buster? Maybe a more compliant wheel build could smooth out some of the bumps and ease some of the back pain you experienced.
I personally rode the DK on a Selle Anatomica on a Quiring 29er. I enjoyed the saddle though I still had a little sit bone soreness in the last 20 miles (of my race which was ended at the halfway mark) The suspended leather saddle combined with my setback Thomson and the Ti frame let to a very smooth ride for me. For wheels I was running Stans Flows with Kenda Small Block8s…tons of tire volume and I’m happy to report… no flats in the 101 miles…. setup tubeless.
Just curious if a compromise in wheel stiffness would in the end, lead to a more overall compliant bike without the use of a thudbuster or expensive Ti seatpost.
Greg L: Good question, but I think that the answer there is no. My saddle, a WTB SST glitter cover model, is super comfy. I never had any sit bone discomfort. My lower back issues were due to all the effort against the wind and hills. As the ride progressed, any bumps incurred were painful, which may or may not have been alleviated by a titanium post. I think it may have helped some.
Hey GT,
What hubs are you running with the EDGE wheels. I am thinking of building a set for my Fargo build.
Thanks
KRK: They are the new American Classic Disc 135 and Disc 225 hubs. (The numbers in the names referring to their weights in grams)
Any idea what that “found” seatbag is? It seems to be the perfect size, not to big, not to little.
I’m looking for one just like it, no luck so far………………………….
Want to sell me yours?
Glad to see the Vulpines served you well – they have been my training tire for road/path/trail for awhile. They do pinch flat once in a while though,sio I will be trying the Cafelatex technique you pioneered. What tubes and what pressures did you run?
BTW – congrats on tackling the race – starting that could be a great goal for next year.
Willie: Odd, but there is absolutely no brand markings on it. Not even on hardware. My guess is that it was a Jaand bag, but it isn’t like their current offering in this size. I guess I’m at a loss here unless someone out there recognizes it.
LeeT: Tubes are whatever take off 26″er mtb tubes I can get my hands on at work. One is a Bontrager, that much I do know.
Come on out to Kansas next year. It is a great event run by great folks on a demanding, beautiful, and unforgiving course.
GT,
How have you liked these hubs so far? Which hub is being used front and back? Are using the 28 or 32 hole wheels?
KRK
Willie- I have one of the Jandd bags (The “Mountain Wedge III) and its’ wonderful. The Jandd could use an additional seatpost strap like GTed’s, but otherwise I’ve been loving it. It is expandable for overstuffing, and includes short bungees that you can hook around your seatstays for added stability (I’ve never needed them, though).
GTed- any thoughts on aero bars? I did an event that amounted to a grass/gravel/pavement time trial (with short bits of singletrack and mud). It was a 14 mile course, and I used Origin 8 Space Bars with bar-end type aero “nubbins” inboard of the controls. Basically a poor-man’s H-Bar. The narrow position was really fast into the headwind on the fast gravel and pavement sections.
Pictures of my Zion 737 set up for this are on www (dot) flickr (dot) com/jimmythefly I’d include a link but whenever I do my post never shows up.
KRK: The hubs have been flawles so far. No complaints. The hub model for front is the Disc 135, and the rear is the Disc 225. Those are the model names American Classic uses. They are 32 hole drillings.
Jimmythefly: Aero bars on mixed terrain rides, or bar end/ handle bar combinations that mimic an aero bar set up can be quite useful on long rides. I have not had to resort to such tricks, but some folks have and love it.
I am hoping to make the Big Wheeled Ballyhoo so that I can test ride the Fargo. I currently am running a 60 cm surly CC with the Midge bars and I like the set up even if it looks a little funny with a high rise stem. The only problem I am having is in the shifting department. I am running a tandem cable to my rear derailuer related to the length needed to get from my bar end shifter, around all curves of the bar, along the down tube, and then back to the derailuer. I am having lag times or pause when shifting. My local wrenches, who are good guys, feel that my problems center around the need for the tandem size cable and the number of bends that the cable is pulling through.
GT: Are you having any shifting problems running bar ends on your Fargo? I am running my cables similar to yours (under the bar tape). I am considering running pauls thumbies on the tops of the bars to shorten the cable pull and then also investing in some XTR teflon covered cables to help smooth up the shifting. I think the Midge bars are 25.4mm diameter…right??
Hey CJ – you should try running your cables outside of your bar tape. Whenever I set up bar end shifters, the cable wasn’t long enough unless I did that. I have no idea how GT got his to work under the tape. Nor would I do that, I really like the way the cable is routed not under the tape. If you click on my “website” it’s a silly photo of me on my bike, with cables routed like that.
CJ: I just went out and took a look at the Fargo I have here. Really, the biggest difference is the routing over the bars. Your remaining cable run is identical to any other down tube routed bike out there. So if there is friction causing poor shifting, it must be due to something other than routing, which shouldn’t have a kink in it if you are using common sense in how you route the housing under the bars.
Using your mechanics logic, recumbents should never shift properly.
I can not see your bike, and therefore can not diagnose the problem, but just make sure there are no kinks in the housing, tight corners, and make sure the housing ends are not crushed from cutting, are properly dressed, and that you are not using cable end caps that utilize rubber donuts on the inside to prevent moisture/dirt from getting in. Those end caps cause more friction, and are not worth the trouble.
Then make sure you are not rubbing bare cable on a water bottle cage, or some other component. Also, make sure that the cable isn’t bent- even a tiny little bit- where it passes inside housing.
If you follow these tips, I’m betting it’ll work just peachy.
Good luck!
Rob: I have seen your idea plenty of times, but to be honest I don’t like the fact that the cables will exit the bar tape very close to where I place my hands when in the drops. I have set up my Midge bars so that I can ride the drops a majority of the time. I will often ride the drops for 20-30 min, then switch up to the hoods or tops of the bar for a different position just to shake things up. I guess I am a little hesitant to route the cable this way because of the posiblity that I would have the cables in my way all the time…especially when using the brakes.
GT: You make a good point with the recumbent thing. Then bends in my cable house are no different than yours. You are using the Origin 8 bar thought…right? Maybe I will just replace the existing cable and lube it up with teflon lube to see if that helps.
Thanks for your help.
CJ: No Gary bar on this one. It is a Midge bar that will be replaced soon with something better that isn’t out on the market yet.
Shouldn’t matter though, the routing I am using has very graceful curves and works perfectly. Just did a 3 hour single track session on it today. No missed shifts, no hesitation what so ever.
You are a lucky man GT!!
Thanks for your help!
Cool. I can appreciate that concern, although I think it would be very unlikely that you’d get caught up in that cable. Never happens with normal mtb cables, which are not wrapped!
Anyway, I agree with GT: redo your cables and housing – well set up cables just work well
Maybe one of the housing’s was cut poorly, and is causing friction? Or there’s a funny bend in the housing?
I sure wish I could get that new set of drop bars at the same time as you, GT. Be sure to post up pics as soon as you receive them. Should we be watching this site or one of the many other blogs you’re associated with?
I think I’d really like a set of those Vulpines, they’re like a fat Interwolf, and I’ve had good luck with those on my monsterX for over a year now.
Klong: I’ll likely have news posted on all my sites once the bar hits. Stay tuned!