Why Ride A 29″er?
February 24th, 2008 by Guitar TedWhy ride a 29″er?
This might seem like an odd question for this site and especially in 2008 when it would seem that a 29″er is an “obvious” option for any mountain biker these days. I would submit to you that if you are already on board with the 29″er as a bike for off road, this might seem as if it is the case, but there are a lot of folks still looking at 29″ers for the first time. To those who are new to the idea of a 29″er, I paraphrase a popular adult beverage tag line: This post is for you.
The most commonly heard attribute of 29″ers is their ability to roll over trail obstacles with less drama than smaller wheels do. While this is certainly true, it is far from the only thing going on with 29 inch wheels. Here I will briefly lay out the advantages for those who are curious.
Better Roll Over: Okay, lets get this out of the way right off the bat. 29″ers have a different “angle of attack” in relation to trail obstacles you might encounter. This realizes itself to riders as a smoother feel. Sometimes it negates the need for front suspension for some trail riders, thus the plethora of rigid front forks on big wheelers. It is also interesting to note that what is good for the front wheel is also good for the rear wheel.
Better Traction: 29″ers, by the nature of the diameter of the wheel, have a differently shaped contact patch than 26″ers do. (Some would argue that it is a bigger contact patch) However it really is, it is obvious that a 29″er has an ability to claw it’s way up steeps and technical climbs that smaller diameter wheels can not match. This is aided by the following attribute…………
Better Momentum Conservation: One of the oft overlooked characteristics of 29 inch wheels is their propensity for carrying momentum better than smaller wheel sizes do. This helps in clearing climbs, but it also causes 29″ers to be a bit tougher to get going from a slow speed, or stopped situation. If a 29″er rider can learn to work with the momentum factor of 29″ers, it can become one of your greater allies. Less braking is necessary due to the stability and better traction of 29 inch wheels. So if you can learn to trust that, the momentum saved can be a big benefit. Smaller wheels tend to not have any of these traits in the amount that 29″ers do, so using momentum with smaller wheel sizes doesn’t work nearly as well.
Gyroscopic Effect While this is very closely related to the above mentioned benefit, I broke it out because this is the one thing that makes 29″ers seem so “safe” when downhilling, or while attacking technical terrain. A 29 inch wheel by its very nature will want to stay upright better than a smaller wheel will. This can work for you not only in high speed down hills, but in slower technical terrain as well. It is one of the reasons why many taller riders feel that the 29″er bike is less likely to “endo” than smaller wheeled bikes.
Loose Terrain Traversing/Traction There is a reason why early 29″er pioneers were winning mud bog contests and crossing sandy desert terrain better than their 26″er brethren were. The wheels seem to really excell at crossing loose sand, mud, and even snow. This is a direct result of many of the above mentioned benefits working in concert with each other, but is remarkable, so I mentioned it as a stand alone trait.
Geometry Quirks The positioning of critical frame elements on 29″ers results in a lower center of gravity in relation to the axles for the rider. This also results in a more stable feeling in corners and a less “endo” prone ride for riders choosing 29 inch wheels. It is also worth mentioning that the mere existence of 29″er steering conundrums has opened up a whole new facet for riders of 29 inch wheeled bikes, namely the ability to tune the steering characteristics of your ride.
There are many riders that hop aboard a 29″er and just decide that it works, others take awhile to “warm up” to them, while others find out it just isn’t their cup of tea. Hopefully this brief list will help you to decide whether a 29″er is for you or not. But really, the best thing is to just go out and try one for yourself and see.
Happy Trails!
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All amazing reasons, but you missed my favorite reason and the reason i got into 29ers 5 years ago. ROAD SIZED WHEELS! Slap on a pair of 700 x 32 tires and you have yourself one super fast, ultra stable, urban monster. Something that gets overlooked way too often in the 29er world.
Good summing up GT!
@ Matty : You can get a just as fast and even more stable urban ride also with the 60mm Schwalbe Big Apples. I’ll argue that if you cruise near or under 22mph, the Biggies are faster
On the 29″er I feel actually more comfortable doing trialsy moves, thanks to the stability probably. Less drama going on, everything more smooth.
On a short training race course with a certain hop-up I could really annoy the crap out of a world class racer, by closing the gap just there. It was less than straight in the approach, coming from a loose sand road crossing, the 29″er made it all easy and fast
Yes, well stated GT.
Thanks!
AC
This was EXACTLY the type of info I have been looking for. I do have a question though: How durable (flat resistant) are the 29er wheels? I think that the 29 would be good for urban commuting as well, but if they are as prone to flats as road tires, I dunno…
Wanna…….I commute on one of my 29ers. I run the Rythm Elite wheelset with the Schwalbe Big Apple 2.0 tires and I have yet to get a flat. I have run over glass and nails with no damage. Another note is that I am 6′2″, 275lbs and my wheels are true as can be on both of my 29ers. The Rhythms have proven quite stiff and very reliable. My other wheel set is a Chris King/WTB Lazer Disc that gets HAMMERED off road over very rocky terrain. No flats, no truing, no fuss. All fun. If you are thinking of a 29er for dirt or pavement, it’s worth it.
A 29er seems easier on the body over a long distance. I think it is due to the stability and momentum but it takes less effort to keep moving. I am more comfortable on my 29er hard tail over 50 miles then I ever was on my 26 inch full suspension bike.
1 more thing about commuting/urban riding- I use 32C Vitoria Randonneur on my daily commuter and they are heavier than the Karma 1.9s.
WannaCmore, just because the rims are a size up, don’t compare them to road tires. Think of 26″ sized fat road slicks (if you’ve got experience with that), and up the speed and durability a notch.
The speeds I managed on the 2.35″ slicks while commuting were very good. In most conditions faster in practice than a plain racer boy road bike. You just don’t use the brakes as much, and cut corners like they’re not there.
For commuting, it’s worth using some sealent in the tubes anyway.
Nice sum up GT.
I frequently read the criticism that 29″ wheels are harder to get up to speed.
Yes, but that is offset my the greater momentum of 29″ wheels.
The need to accelerate the wheel is greatly reduced.
Also, you don’t need to slow down as much on a 29er when carving turns and rolling over trail obstacles. The lesser angle of attack means the wheels meet less resistance.
I have noticed, because of the greater diameter, greater centrifugal force, and traction that the bike is more stable when standing. I am encouraged to stand where it would be difficult to do on a 26er. That means powering up and over things without resorting to the inner chainring. I rarely use it any more and I’m not a lightweight and there is tons of climbing where I live.
I think that it has greatly foster the single speed movement because when you only have one gear you have to stand a lot.
You forgot to mention that I ride one. That’s reason enough right there…
I am annoyed why f. e.x does not introduce Totems and boxxers
I am curious when some parts of 26er forks will be withdrawn from circulation in favor of 29er versions?
Oderus…thanks for the testamonial on 29er commuting.
Cloxxki, George-Tanks for your insight as well. So a 29er is kinda like an old steam locomotive: takes more energy to get started, but less energy to keep going. Isn’t there a Newtonian law that states “once in motion, stays in motion”?
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DavidCopperfield brings up an interesting point, and i know its off topic but im just personally wondering. Are there a lack of long travel forks because the frames out right now cant handle them, or because there is not a need for them right now. The reason why i ask this is because my buddy just completed and raced on a 69er downhill bike using a Hanebrink inverted downhill fork with a custom spacer installed to handle a 29er front wheel. He said it was one of the best things he has ever done to a bike, and if this something the industry as a whole might be looking at too?
SteamLoc? A 29″ WHEEL take a few percent more energy to get moving. The 10% reduced rolling resistance cuts more, even at low speeds, and the weight factor (0.4%?) could ever add.
But it blasts over everything yes.
“Steam locomotive” is a bit over the top. I think many of the complaints about 29ers not accelerating well are coming from people who are gearing them like 26ers. Most of us aren’t capable of accelerating fast enough for a little bit of extra rotating mass to make much of a difference.
Also, having everything down lower between the axles seems to make track standing a whole lot easier.
I’ve just built myself some light wheels for my 29er to try and improve the acceleration.
In context my local trails are super-twisty, super rooty singletrack, but my day trips are the opposite really. It’s the local rides I feel I need the boost in acceleration.
Anyway, I wonder if I’m going to affect the other advatnages mention above (momentum conservation and gyroscopic effect) by dropping a lb off my wheelset?
One important point was forgotten as to why ride a 29′er. It’s the most fun you can have with your clothes on.
You ride with clothes?
What a dork. CLOTHES RIDER!
Leon, I hope you’ll feel you didn’t waste your money on those lighter wheels. A few knee bends before breakfast will do more for your acceleration than new wheels. Or gear a cog lighter.
For me, carrying more speed did a lot for my out-of-corner efforts.
It’s really a matter of math. Emotion doesn’t increase the relevance of weight for the stopwatch.
Well, It’s always nice to have a lighter bike anyway. To be honest, my 26er SS is always going to be better on the local trails. The twists are almost trackstand tight in places. There isn’t a whole lot of momentum to conserve! This big-wheeled baby of mine is really for the long away days.
I like the way I can freewheel faster downhill than all the people bigger than me. That makes me smile.
Better traction: Assuming that your contact patch and gear inches are equal, if you run 175 mm cranks on a 26 versus 29-inch wheels, it requires 11% more force on the pedals of a 29er to apply an equal force to the ground compared to a 26-inch wheel - hence the development of the 69er bike for rapid acceleration. One could easily simulate the traction of a 29er by using 155 mm cranks on a 26-inch bike, however rider leg length would certainly be a factor. Bicycle design, like everything else, is a series of compromises. Finding the correct balance between acceleration and traction is a function terrain, power and physical size of the rider. Tall or powerful riders will likely prefer 29-inch wheels to transfer more energy into forward motion than into wheel spin.
There are many other considerations in choosing between 26 or 29, but at 6″3″, I feel more ergonomically suited to 29.
What would y’all say to a 5′5″ rider who’s all torso (28″ inseam) getting on a 29er? I think the physics of it would say that my shorter pistons might struggle a bit more to get it started, but once going, the other geomtric/physics forces would not be affected one way or another. I’m thinking of moving up from a Specialized Epic XC racing platform to something more “all-trail” capable and love everything I’m reading about the GF HiFi 29. Anyway, any thoughts or advice would be great.
cheers,
Alex
I’m 5′3″ and have just started riding a 29er - a GF Rig!
I love it and really don’t think you have to be tall to ride a 29er.
These last comments were very helpful. I am a 5″6′ rider and was wondering if it made sense to start riding a 29er. i’ve done some test rides at my LBS and they all felt great, not too big. But I was still wondering if this was the move for me. the last two comments give me more confidence for a 29er.
TreS, I went with the GF HiFi Deluxe 29er and am unreservedly psyched that I did. You really do roll over everything better and more smoothly. I’ve experienced no toe-overlap, no “flop” at slow speeds and have conquered obstacles and technical sections that have been beyond my skill level for the last three or four years. I definitely plateaued on the 26″ platform, but the bigger hoops on the HiFi basically let me “cheat” my way over and past things. First time in years I’ve had no sense whatsoever of buyers remorse. There are lots of different 29″ bikes and setups so keep trying out different bikes to suit your body’s geometry and your personal riding needs, but don’t rule out 29ers due to your size (I’m the 5′5″ guy above). I immediately rode better on the 29er. I don’t mean I’m a better rider, I’m not. I’m the same guy I was on a 26″ bike, but the larger wheel immediately (literally, first ride) got me over stuff I’d never been able to get over before: and some of the stuff I couldn’t get over before I’d sat there with a highly experienced friend watching me try and try again, over and over working different sitting/standing positions, different gear ratios, trying different lines… to no avail. Then, I rode up and over with the 29er like the obstacles were nothing: again, THE FIRST RIDE! And I rode away with the biggest grin on my face ever!
cheers,
Alex
Alex, just curious what size are you riding. I’ve only been able to test ride 17″ frames, but i’m wondering how much of a difference a smaller frame would make. The owner of the LBS said he felt the smaller frames made the bikes feel too short. we’re pretty much the same height so should i expect the same? I come from riding road bikes so i’m still getting used to the different feel of a mountain bike. when i’m on the bike i don’t feel that it is too big in any way, but i just want to know what are your thoughts?
Hey TreS. I like the feel of being pulled forward, likely due to my more extensive road riding past, and the GF Medium and Small both felt really good: the medium pulled me out really nicely, but the small did not feel off in any way, however. What sold me on the small was some low-speed manuevering around my lbs: the size small just responded better to my input, the medium felt slighlty too “Cadillac-y”. I think the GF small is either a 15.5″ or a 16″ and the medium is a 17″. I would def. try out both sizes in whatever bike(s) you’re looking at and give them a whirl at low and high speeds (if possible), and, if your lbs will allow you to, demo the bike(s) in both sizes and see if they’ll apply the demo fee towards the purchase of whichever one you settle on. See how they react to you on rock gardens, big climbs, descents, technical terrain, anything you think you’l lbe riding on. Even if they won’t refund the demo cost, the $50 or so will be better than $2,500 on a bike you realize a month from now is too big or small. So much of the ride’s quality is a subjective “how do I feel?” factor, that you really just have to jump on some and see which one talks to you the most.
Cheers and good luck!
Alex