Comments on: Tire range growing on both ends

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By: Cloxxki

Cloxxki — Wed, 26 Jul 2006 12:31:39 +0000

No tube to deform > lower RR, more compliant tire > more grip.
Goop to seal the tire is often lighter than a lightweight tube.

Goop-tubeless is ALL about auto-sealing punctures. Many riders report to have gone from weekly punctures to years without a single one. When changing to a tube you’ll first have to deal with removing dozens of nails and cactus needles…

Goop will be goop. Change before it dries out and it will be a mess.

By: swedge

swedge — Wed, 26 Jul 2006 12:00:25 +0000

Somewhat, Bottom line is that I am more interested in greater reliability then I am low weight, but if you can get both great. So if you have a tubeless wheel and you have to add goop to it to seal it doesn�t that stuff now make it weigh more then a tubed tire? And what does that goop do when you have to change the tire? I know this as I change my own Dirt bike tires; the crap gets every where and makes tire changes a PITA. With motorcycle tires they are thick enough to withstand, say rolling over a simple sand spur, or a Sweet-gum ball. Based on some experience of some of the folks on the trails I ride it seems tubeless tires are more prone to puncture flats. Anyway I was just wondering if the Maintenance issues associated with tubeless tires (On MTBs) has been addressed yet? Mainly the one about puncture flats. Also how do you get greater traction AND lower rolling resistance, it would seem to defy simple physics? I know you can run lower PSI in tubeless but that�s a moot point for me being a Clydesdale that rides an FS bike, I let the suspension do the work rather then air down, besides being a Clydesdale weighting the wheels for traction is NOT an issue.

By: Guitar Ted

Guitar Ted — Tue, 25 Jul 2006 22:36:02 +0000

Wow! I missed where anyone had said that you could run the Panaracer tubeless. That’s even more appealing.

swedge: The advantage of tubeless is additional traction, less rolling resistance, and in some instances, lighter weight. You can run a “real” tubeless, ( or UST tire) with a tube when needed, or they can be patched, ( with some difficulty) from the inside of the casing. Traditionally, you would add a latex sealant to your tubeless tires to aid in sealing small punctures without removal of the tire from the rim for repair. You can convert a traditional wheelset to tubless by adding a special rim strip to seal off the spoke holes and add a valve to thev rim. Some wheels, like the Bontrager rim, come tubeless ready, with a special rim strip. Stans also sells a kit to do this. Stans also has it’s own tubeless system available. Hope that helps.

By: swedge

swedge — Tue, 25 Jul 2006 13:48:01 +0000

So whats the big deal with going tubless, is it just a weight issue? anuther dumb question do you need special wheels to run tubeless? also normally i can change a tire with just my hands, dont tubless tires have to be stiffer to work? and how do you fix leaks in them? plug them like a car tire? or just slap a self stick patch on the inside of it?

By: PA

PA — Mon, 24 Jul 2006 14:17:48 +0000

I work at a distributor and, being the sole guy who rides 29er in here, just got a set of sample 29er Rampages to try out (front desk to purchasing five mintues ago: “ya got somethin’ from Japan up here!”). Since it’s unfortunately my last week working here, I’ll probably post some meatier comments (and photo) in a week - I can’t imagine my employer might get in trouble if I do so beforehand, but they’ve been good to me and I’m paranoid. My schedule won’t let me ride ‘em until Wednesday afternoon anyway. I’ll be running them tubeless after running kevlar-bead ExiWolfs with Stan’s for the last month or so. Pre-production weight looks like 794g on one and 789g on the other. Knobs are good and chunky.

By: Swedge

Swedge — Sun, 23 Jul 2006 16:23:42 +0000

Thanks for the info

By: Cloxxki

Cloxxki — Sun, 23 Jul 2006 13:40:08 +0000

Go to mtbtires.com please

By: Swedge

Swedge — Sun, 23 Jul 2006 13:08:53 +0000

Hey it would be great if somebody would make a listing of 29er tires with the ACTUAL width of them, I don’t want to make the same mistake I did with my 26″ bike when I bought some 2.3″ continentals that were more like most manufactures 2.0’s. the real weight of the tire would be cool too, as nobody wants a tire that weighs a ton except for maybe the down hill only crowd.